Paper backed veneer may be flat, but I'd investigate
whether the veneer might separate from the paper, as I
have heard it may by my local supplier, Furniture
Care, in Marietta, Ga.. Call Highland Hardware in
Atlanta, or a veneer supplier ( tons of them listed in
rear of "fine Woodworking". They know a lot about
this stuff.
Thump
P.S. Is poplar better for a lid this size than
furniture grade plywood, like beech???
Just curious. I have a lid to build also, and am
really interested in learning what everyone knows
about this.
--- "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>
>
>
> List,
>
> Always willing to try something once, I am in the
> middle of making a lid
> for an 8' grand from scatch. The piano is ebony.
> The core is poplar. The
> question regards vaneer.
>
> Has any used the paper backed vaneer in a
> situation such as this? Could
> that be used as only on layer? Or should it be used
> in two layers? Or is it
> better to just use regular, unbacked vaneer and
> cross band it?
>
> Andrew Remillard
>
> [Paul Chick (Earthlink)]
> I've done this on smaller than lid size pieces.
> I, personally, would not
> skip the cross banding. Telegraphing can ruin it
> sooner or later. Maple
> crossbanding works well. The paper backed veneer is
> thinner but quite
> stable and FLAT, making it much easier to work
> with. Just curious: how do
> you plan to "glue" the veneer to the core? Do you
> have a press rigged up,
> use contact cement, use a hot glue method, or use
> hot hide glue?
>
> Paul C
>
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