Bechstein Pinblock

[Andrew & Rebeca Anderson]

You might want to consider Grizzly tools too.  I've used some and they are 
well built.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G9959
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G9977

The price certainly is more access-able and they have the advantage of 
being dual purpose, how-bout milling your own metal brackets, etc.?

Andrew
Las Cruces, NM

At 10:14 PM 1/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Seems like there are two options, either spend $8,095 (or there abouts):
>http://www.redmond-machinery.com/evans_2480.htm
>
>Or, build your own:
>http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/workshop/1997/2/pin_router/index.phtml
>
>Looks like a pretty neat setup!
>
>Terry Farrell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Ballard" <yardbird@vermontel.net>
>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:23 PM
>Subject: Re: Bechstein Pinblock
>
>
> > At 7:24 PM -0500 1/29/04, david thomson wrote:
> > >Thanks for the suggestions, Bill.  I've never heard of an over-arm
> > >router.  DO you
> > >have more info on that?
> >
> > This is what one looks like.
> > http://www.amazon.com/o/dt/assoc/handle-buy-box=B0000E3HPA. As you
> > can see it's not a casual piece of machinery, more like the
> > Bridgeport miller for woodworking. Chris Robinson found one
> > second-hand about twenty years ago whose head was mounted on a
> > horizontal steel column, like a radial arm drill press. They're
> > capable of complex set-ups, big muscle when it comes to stock
> > removal, and extreme accuracy.
> >
> > Back nearly thirty years ago, I had the local machine shop make me up
> > the band of sheet steel to wrap around the body of my 1/4" router,
> > with lugs welded to it to fit right into the yoke of my radial arm
> > saw, and exact swap of the saw motor for the router. That's the poor
> > man's version. Sometimes it's better to have the machine and the bit
> > on top where it's visible, instead of underneath, as in a router
> > table.
> >
> > >But this step at the plate flange is what's
> > >troubling me.  It's not square, it's on an angle downward which is
> > >akward.  I get
> > >the Journal but I think the article you are refering to was back in
> > >'97 (?) which
> > >predates my subscription.
> >
> > So are you talking about a portion of the top surface which inclines
> > 24º from level, or the front face which itself is split into two
> > steps, like a Chickering Quarter grand block?
> >
> > John Hartman is probably your best source of advice, although
> > undoubtedly there are others on the list who've done this style
> > block. I was just worried as to whether a hand held router might not
> > be up to the amounts of stock removal you might have ahead of you.
> >
> > BTW, Barbara Richmond suggested to me that among your current shop
> > projects, might be wrapping up the work of the late David Moore. In
> > 3/86, when I was just a few days shy of a pay point on a rebuilding,
> > and damaged my right eye, I was humbled by the number of fellow
> > Chapter members who stepped in to do shop work and local tuning for
> > me, to keep me going during the ten weeks I was out of commission.
> > Good on ya'.
> >
> > Bill Ballard RPT
> > NH Chapter, P.T.G.
> >
> > "May you work on interesting pianos."
> >      ...........Ancient Chinese
> > _______________________________________________
> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
>
>
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