CA update procedure

[Joe And Penny Goss]

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Hi George.
Why waste the money on activator when the glue will set on its own? Also =
I only use CA in situations where there is little or no stress on the =
bond like tuning pins, bridge pins and stripped screw holes and want the =
clearness of the glue to hide the fact that a repair has been done. A =
trained eye can still tell but anyone can tell if too much activator is =
used.  One other thing that causes me to forgo the use of activator is =
that I worry about getting the chem on places that it should not be like =
bass styring windings.
Oh and one other thing comes to mind. When the activator is used there =
seems to be a greater release of the vapors that I do not want to =
breathe.
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: TysonPiano@aol.com=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 3:12 AM
  Subject: Re: CA update procedure


  Hi Joe Goss, Joe Garrett, and List,
     I'm George Tyson, Associate Member in Southern Oregon's=20
  Rogue Valley Chapter.  I'm curious about the results of using =
accelerator when CA gluing tuning pins.  I've CA'd two spinets (not =
together) using accelerator on one and no accelerator on the other.  =
Both pin blocks tightened up nicely.  I haven't followed up yet on =
second tunings for either of these pianos.=20
     Joe Garrett: When you CA'd the German Upright did you use =
accelerator? =20
     Has this List come to any sort of agreement regarding whether to =
use or not to use accelerator?  I looks like Joe Goss says no to =
activator.  When I've phoned the Dryburgh company I've been told yes to =
accelerator.      =20
       =20
  George Tyson, Klamath Falls, OR
    =20
  In a message dated 1/26/04 8:13:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, =
imatunr@srvinet.com writes:



    Hi Calin, and list, This is a update on ideas in  my use of CA glue =
in
    treating loose tuning pins.
    Great,
    If you use the CA on a grand be sure to take the action out and =
cover the
    bed with news print ( paper ).
    Also the glue will run a lot so the use of a very fine needle ( I =
use my
    insulin micro fine needles ) will put the glue exactly where you =
want it to
    be. Use a paper towel near where you are working as each time you =
move the
    needle there may be some drips that go where you do not want them.
    Also a two pass approach is best just like in tuning. And in =
sections of
    perhaps 24 pins.
    You may want to mark the top of the pins with chalk for each section =
until
    you get the idea of where you are going to go next. Treat a section =
at a
    time with the first and go back over with a second pass.
    Look for the welling up of the glue to let you know to stop but also =
as a
    warning that the glue is going down a crack. In this case stop and =
go on to
    the next pin letting the glue set up a little before adding more.`
    You should be able to start tuning the instrument when the last pin =
is
    treated as the moisture in the wood and friction of pressure will =
cause the
    glue to set up a little. Full cure in a day or so without any =
activator.
    If you do an upright you may want the instrument to be on its back, =
but I
    have treated a few pins with the needle with the instrument =
standing. It is
    a pain in my back to do it this way but a few pins are not too bad.
    Joe Goss




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