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Seems like driving the pin out the bottom would unnecessarily widen =
the
bottom of the hole. Usually the pin can be backed off enough to where =
the
coils are loose but not yet distorting or twisting the becket (the bend =
of
the wire where it enters the pin). Then pluck the becket out of the pin
with needle nose pliers and pull it off the pin with a stringing hook, =
or
leave it on the pin and back the pin out with a T-handle or ratchet or =
even
a tuning pin socket in a drill -- use a variable speed one with slow =
rpm.
Sometimes when backing out with the coils still on the pin, the wire =
will
"find" the hole in the pin again and get caught and break off, so watch =
it.
Then do your shimming or reaming and turn or drive the pin back in.
If the becket does break, you can insert a screwdriver through the =
coils
and pull carefully towards yourself with both hands to unwind the coils,
then make a new bend. You won't have 3 coils any more, but the only
alternative is splice or new string.
I thought driving pins out the bottom was only for broken pins that
can't be extracted any other way. There's a danger of separating the =
bottom
pinblock lamination if it's not supported on the edges of the hole.
--David Nereson, RPT
I don't drive the pin out through the bottom, I take a small punch from =
the bottom of the block and tap the pin up to get the coil off of the =
plate. If it were in the middle of the piano coil, beckett, or string =
replacement wouldn't be a problem. The only time I have done this is =
usually on pretty nasty pianos and you are trying to make it work. If =
you are on A0, with a sharp string angle and 2 inches of wire past the =
agraffe, the chances of getting that string off are minimal without =
problems. Just pull the action and tap up on the pin, there are no =
block problems and you can set the pin to any height that you want.=20
Phil
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