I have never been 100% happy with any large-surface
veneering I have done ( always a little wavy ). But I
have used contact cement, then pounded on the surface
to get it glued "flat". And Elmer's glue, allowed to
dry, then ironed together. ( Plenty of heat/pressure!
)
In both cases a non-uniform glue layer seems to be the
main culprit in preventing flat resulkts, so use
aroller, spray can...whatever...to insure this!
I would certainly like to see a tech who has been
sucessful in creating a glass-flat re-veneering come
forth and share his/her secret!!!
Thump
--- Andrew & Rebeca Anderson <anrebe@zianet.com>
wrote:
> I remember a syringe being used to remove air from a
> very persistent air
> bubble. 3 or 4" steel rollers work really well
> usually...
> Andrew
> At 07:59 PM 7/13/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >I am working on an upright piano that had water
> damage on the horizontal
> >surfaces. I ordered thin walnut veneer and have
> been trying,
> >unsuccessfully, to get it to adhere to the boards.
> I did remove the old
> >damaged veneer, and cleaned and sanded the surfaces
> to be repaired. I
> >first worked with wood glue and clamped in a
> sandwich of boards, then
> >tried a contact cement on the next piece. I keep
> getting air bubbles. It
> >looks terrible! There has to be a secret to
> replacing veneer. Would one
> >of you expert refinishers give me the benefit of
> your knowledge...please?
> >
> >Ed Carwithen
> >John Day, OR
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC