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>Hello List and Avery
>There's two versions of the single string hitch loop. First there's
>the [very] ordinary once-round-the-pin then the usual nice tight
>wind- around-itself-twice-before-cutting-off type. Then there's the
>wonderful Broadwood Hitch-pin Loop. This masterful loop dictates
>going TWICE around the hitch-pin and then winding THREE times around
>itself before bending down towards the loop and cutting off. I
>really like the Broadwood version and gives me a great pleasure to
>do a whole piano that way. The end result is tidy and
>re-assuringly secure. I made a JIG to do this with ease. It consists
>of a 10" length of 3" x 1 1/2" with a screw, a bit thicker than the
>Hitch-Pin, vertically inserted and the head sawn off. The sharp end
>was then filed smooth and round-edged for safety. Then, in a line
>with each other I inserted another sawn off screw and a book holder
>(you know - one of those thingys on the music desk) And there's the
>jig. To use is ease in itself. The string is laid on the block,
>under the book holder, beside the pin, and wound twice around the
>dummy hitch-pin. Go a little further than 90deg to allow for
>"unspringing". Remove the string with its nice new hitch loop and
>grasp this same hitch loop with a good pair of "duck-billed" pliers.
>Now simply wind the string onto itself thrice, bend it back toward
>the loop and cut off, leaving about a 1/4" tail on the same plane as
>the loop.
>Simple isn't it ?
>Regards from a misty-yet-sunny lunch-time in a Sussex Downland Village
>Michael G (UK)
Indeed Michael, the double loop eye makes a very nice string
termination. My previous reservations about them was their tendency
to pull tight onto the hitch pin, making subsequent removal
difficult. However, after doing some experiments before completing
our piano no. 4, and after making a special jig with various size
spigots to enable the eyes to be formed the correct size for the
hitch pin, I derived a procedure for making double loop eyes which do
not tighten up on the hitch pin (the various spigot sizes were found
to be necessary because I like the coil to be only just bigger than
the hitch pin diameter, and the smaller wire gauges will finish up
with larger diameter eyes unless a smaller spigot is used). The eyes
are made by first bending a 90 degree kink in the wire before forming
the eye. The back length wire segment must be clamped in the jig
(before forming the eye around the spigot) to hold the kink up
against the spigot. This prevents the kink from straightening out as
the coil is wound, and it also allows for the eye to be wound such
that the eye is centered relative to wire segment.
Furthermore, I discovered that the coil should be wound only until it
is perpendicular to the back scale segment. While the coil unwraps
slightly when it is taken off the jig, as it is pushed back over the
back scale segment and down, before winding the finishing loops
around the back length segment, the eye will close to the correct
diameter. If the last coil is wrapped passed the point where it is
perpendicular to the back scale segment, the last coil will end up
slightly over-diameter, which (apart from spoiling it appearance) may
allow the first-bent kink to slide away from the coil into the back
scale segment.
We are now winding double loop eyes for our bass strings, and for the
second string section which is loop-and-eye strung. I prefer the
double loop eye to the English eye. The English eye stiffens the back
scale segment, reducing the freedom of the sound board movement.
Ron O.
--
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
Grand Piano Manufacturers
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mailto:info@overspianos.com.au
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