pinblock drilling machine

Carl Meyer cmpiano@comcast.net
Fri, 5 Aug 2005 19:23:36 -0700


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Several posts have asked about "in the piano pin block drilling machines". 
I'll share mine.

The attachment dpleft shows a "white board, a foot wide particle board 
covered with white plastic.  This is reinforced with a piece of 3/4 thick 
plywood about inches wide at the rear and a 2 inch wide piece of 1/8 inch 
aluminum at th front.  This could be thicker for more strength.

A drill press is slid left to right and the white board is slid fore and aft 
on a couple of terry cloth towels on the rims.  Talcum powder can lube the 
sliding.  Shown is a "cold gun" that shoots cold air on the drill bit.  This 
allows you to drill a complete block and still put you hand on the drill. 
It is that cool.  If you use the two pass drill you may not need this.  It 
is very effective when making pin block plugs, however.

You may drill through the plate with a 3/8 drill and plug for a later pass 
with an appropriate size drill for no 1 or 2 pin.  If you are pulling the 
plate a 1 inch plug would be more appropriate.

You'll notice a six inch drill in use.  Select a size that will give a 
decent fit for the plug.  You may need to use a metric size.  A good 
machinist supply house will have all the sizes.  I have a drill chuck that I 
have put a 3/8 bolt in the business end and then chucked a 3/8 drill rod and 
then turned the  bolt on a lathe for good concentricity and used that for an 
extension.

Now look at the other attachment.  A five speed drill press is available for 
39 to 59 dollars.  Modify as shown so that the press can be lowered as 
required with the shown Allen wrench.  Two screws are used.  The throw of 
the drill is 2 inches minimum.  The leverage of the handle gives full stroke 
with about one third rotation of the handle.  Feed gently, since the 
floating drill press will rise up and change angle if it is fed too heavily. 
Joe Garrett doesn't have that problem with his 800 pound machine but I can 
put mine on a shelf out of the way.  I can lift it even at my age.

In anticipation of a question, if you want to drill holes on the bias, just 
throw a dowel of the required diameter under the back side of the sliding 
member or in the front if you really want to tilt the pin forward.  I like 
90 degrees in most cases.

Two four foot pieces of unistrut can be used under the block with 
appropriate bolts and nuts for adjustment for stability.

Dumb questions are always welcomed, of course.  I have more pictures.  Smart 
ass answers, too.

Carl Meyer PTG assoc
Santa Clara, Ca.

 

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