Thanks Stefan,
I had a customer I let strip his own piano. He
thought he knew more than I did, and ruined the case
by trying to "sand out" stain spots in the veneer.
Most "scratches" can be steamed out, with a bit of wet
fabric pressed under an iron.
The alcohol/lacquer thinner/abrasive pad idea
seems best to remove residual stain, if possible. Or a
brass brush dipped in the stuff, followed by a paper
towel/solvent wipe. ( Wear gloves and a mask. )
My suggestion for chlorine bleach was only for
AFTER all these other methods have been tried. Aniline
stain responds nicely to it. This I learned fropm Bob
Flexner, one of the world's top finish experts.
G
--- Stéphane Collin <collin.s@skynet.be> wrote:
> Gordon,
>
> I know this is a well known nono, but in my life,
> sanding by hand with 240
> grit in the direction of wood grain evens the tone
> of wood without ruining
> the veneer. No other technique got me rid of the
> superficial scratches and
> of the offendable changes in colour shades of
> veneer. Yet, I'm readdy to
> experiment better techniques. Maybe we disagree on
> some english term, like
> sanding. I know in flemmish, there are two words
> for sanding : "schuuren"
> which is sanding with 40 grit to 180 grit, and
> "slissen" which is sanding
> with 240 to 1200 grit, and sounds more like
> polishing. In french, no
> difference : both are called sanding. How is it in
> English ? I recall
> having made concavities in my early days with a
> sanding power tool and 120
> grit, insisting on areas which presented
> defectuosities, but this I do not
> anymore. Anyway, always nice to share experience
> (if I can say I have
> some).
>
> Best regards.
>
> Stéphane Collin.
>
> > Sorry, Stefan. He'll never sand to "bare wood"
> without
> > going through the veneer, and generally making a
> mess
> > out of it. DO NOT NEVER EVER ATTEMPT TO EVEN THE
> TONE
> > OF VENEERED WOOD BY SANDING !!!!!!!!!
> > You will sand through, end up with concavities,
> etc..
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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