This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Subject: Re: general finishing question Terry <terry@farrellpiano.com> wrote: Hi Mark, If you stain before filling grain, when sanding the dried grain filler, how do you avoid sanding through the shellac and/or stain? I seem to be grain-fill/stain challanged! Are you using water based grain filler? Hi Terry - I have used both water-based filler and solvent-based filler, and either way, sanding the stuff without sanding thru the color IS a challenge that requires constant vigilance while sanding. I wish I had a magic word or two to pass on to you, but I don't. As I mentioned in an earlier post, sanding the filler in the exact same manner that you sanded the bare wood is a necessary starting point. When you don't use grain filler, how many coats of top-coat do you find is required to get a level finish - or do you live with the grain depressions in this approach? Naturally all woods are not identical, but generally I would say that mahogany sanded to 220, dyed and sealed with at least a 2lb cut of shellac, will require app. 6 total applied coats of water-based material to fill the grain. I just sprayed one last week where I stopped at 5 total coats of water-based, and there is the ever-so-slight amount of grain showing, a look I have warmed to of late. Mark Terry Farrell Mark, Terry, Others After your filler is COMPLETELY dried spray a couple of coats of shellac (2# cut) over the filler. This gives you more film over your stain. Now sand the shellac level or near level. The high spots from the filling process will be gone. Paul C ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/c7/41/9c/f0/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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