coat-hanger wire

[Michael Gamble]

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Hello Listers
What would we do without the humble coat hanger wire? I've noticed on =
the list lately that there have been two references to it. There's the =
amazing tip for keeping loops in springs straight whilst "sewing" the =
loop in situ (butt springs) then earlier there was that equally amazing =
"use once" tool for removing capstans. I always carry remnants of coat =
hanger wire around for use as temporary hinge pins where the original =
has been lost. Coat hangers come in varying thicknesses so I have a mini =
stock of all I can find. Then there's the hook part of those plastic =
coat hangers.... They're a different and stronger metal and they're good =
for sharpening the end to a 'V' and using as a scraper to remove =
glued-in loop ends from flange ears. Any other ideas out there?
Regards from Sunny Sussex and ... bird song...amazing. In-Word of the =
Day...
Michael G.(UK)
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: richard.ucci@att.net=20
  To: fishwar@bellsouth.net ; Pianotech=20
  Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 1:16 AM
  Subject: Re: butt springs


  Warren, Thanks for the great advice.

  Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano


    -------------- Original message from "Warren Fisher" =
<fishwar@bellsouth.net>: --------------=20


    Richard,
    Take the action out!  Half way work will always come back to bite =
you on the posterior! Remember to control the sticker wires by removing =
the keys first and at minimum put newspaper between the wires and the =
rear of the keybed. A better alternative is a thin rope tied to the =
action brackets and looped in front of the stickers and tightened while =
pressing against the wires.  A pair of long forcepts helps to route the =
rope around the brackets 2-3 times so they will stay tight while you go =
on to the next section. Put each loop over the last to hold it tight. =
Use a slip-knot on the last one to save you time removing.

    Remove the spring rail by loosening the screws and lifting it  =
between the hammers and the dampers.  Save and number any spacers =
between the brackets and the rail. Put wallpaper solution on the felt =
and use a small scraper to remove any remaining glue.

    There are two methods of spring attachment that I know of:
    1. The springs are jammed down into thin grooves on the back of the =
rail under the felt.  Use the flat edge of the point of a pocket knife =
to pry them out.  Use a small thin-bladed screwdriver to press new ones =
into the groove.
    2. The spring is inserted into one hole and then back into another =
about a quarter inch away making a U in the wire.  This is the easiest =
system to redo because you can use a needle nose to pull the loop up =
snug in the mortice.
    Regardless of the type, you need use a two inch piece of coat-hanger =
wire threaded through the loops to keep the springs from turning on you =
to make a haphazard job.
    Before you re-insert the rail compare the angle of the spring to the =
ones you took out and bend them uniformly to have the same spring =
tension throughout. When you put the rail in have the springs pointing =
up so they don't snag  and then twist the rail so that they point =
between the hammers, then re-attach the rail.
    Good Luck,
    Warren

    Warren Fisher- Navy Retired - Slidell, Louisiana=20
      ----- Original Message -----=20
      From:=20
      To: Pianotech
      Sent: 7/21/2005 7:43:15 AM=20
      Subject: Re: butt springs


      Thanks Terry,

      Actually, I did not want to pull the action on this turkey. I was =
toying with the idea of installing springs on a thin strip of wood and =
then glueing it in place.


        -------------- Original message from "Farrell" =
<mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>: --------------=20


        Alan, that was cruel and uncalled for. Whitney, like all piano =
manufacturers space the butt springs one per butt! (It's the butts that =
are randomly spaced!)   ;-)

        That's all you get Rick until you give us more information! R U =
replacing the spring rail for some reason? Or just the springs. Perhaps =
this is the first time you have replaced this type of spring? If so, you =
may just not be aware that the springs are set into little holes in the =
spring rail - so no spacing efforts are needed - just remove old springs =
and replace with new ones in original holes. (You need to soak the felt =
to soften and remove the hide glue...... oh no - was a Whitney glued up =
with hide glue or will it be some ookey white crud.....?????)

        No doubt there is tons of info in the archives describing this =
job. I know there is good stuff in the PTG reprint articles - that's =
what I used the first time I did that job.

        Terry Farrell

          Whitney spinet, eh? Just use the same random spacing the =
factory used.... oh, wait, that was cruel.

          More seriously: Are these on a damper rebound rail in the =
usual configuration? Is the rail still usable?

          Actually, I guess I don't really understand your question ... =
a little more detail, please ...

          Alan Barnard
          Salem, Missouri

             Is there a standard distance for spacing hammer butt =
springs? I'm thinking of doing a gang replacement on a Whitney spinet .

            Thanks,
            Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano
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