Plate handling,

[Warren Fisher]

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Mike,
See comments below:

Warren Fisher- RPT
Navy Retired - Slidell, Louisiana 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Michael Spalding 
To: fishwar@bellsouth.net, Pianotech
Sent: 6/27/2005 7:16:10 AM 
Subject: Re: Plate handling, 


Warren,

Wow - lots of work taping all of those sticks onto the rim!  

[It really wasn't.  I just lined up 3-4 sticks on the soundboard and stretched 2" tape across the tops.  Then I picked up the tape with the sticks hanging down and inserted them in between the plate and the rim until they hit bottom and spread the tape over the top of the rim. W]

You're right about wanting something that extends above the rim to begin guiding the plate before it gets down to the rim top.  That's how I was tought to use the plastic pieces.  About 4" wide and 12" long, standing on end.   On my current project, Knabe left a gap between the soundboard and the rim, so the plastic slips right in and is held in place without tape.  I think you'll find that you don't have to provide continuous coverage all the way around the rim, unless it's a full perimeter plate with very little clearanace.  Or plates with horns that soemtimes have to be tilted at odd angles on the way in or out.  Otherwise, a couple at the tail, a couple more in the inside bend, and on both the rim and stretcher at the front corners, generally should do it.  

I like some of the other suggestions too, like leather/vinyl fabric, pipe insulation, etc.  While I don't necessarily use rim-top protection while moving the plate, I definitely use it for restringing.

It looks like there's still a nosebolt in your photo.  I like to remove them right away.  Sometimes you think the hoist is aligned correctly as you start lifting the plate, but as it rises above the nosebolt it suddenly swings into the rim.  Experience can be a cruel teacher.
[How do you get it back in correctly after you get the plate back in? W]

I strongly recommend getting a chain hoist so you can lower it smoothly.  Your photo looks like there's enough overhead clearance.   I just measured my hoist - the hanger bolt is 73" above the ground.  
[That is about where the ceiling is, but we are working in a rented climate-controlled storage room for now and in order to bolt something up there we would have to go into the room above which belongs to someone else.  The shop crane we are using doesn't jerk but the control for lowering is on the hydraulic cylinder a full arm stretch away from the hook.  We really need 3 people to do it. W]
When I first started I was using a "come-along" - you know, the lever operated ratcheting cable hoist.  
[A shop crane is similar to an engine hoist.  It is a strong central post with a horizontal arm that stretches out over the piano and feet that go under it.  A big hydraulic cylinder raises and lowers the arm.  The control is a knob that bleeds off the fluid to lower the arm. Thanks Warren]
As you said, it's really scary when you're dropping a plate into the piano.  Every click on the ratchet is a rapid drop-and-bounce of the plate, and you just pray that it's line up right.

hope that helps

Mike Spalding

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Warren Fisher 
To: spalding48@earthlink.net, Pianotech
Sent: 6/26/2005 10:00:55 PM 
Subject: Re: Plate handling, 


Thanks Mike,
Getting help is a given.  I just removed the plate from a small grand using "tongue depressors" or "craft sticks" taped to the inside of the rim. They are about 1/2 inch wide, 1/32 inch thick and 4-5 inches long that I got from Walmart for something else.  The stick rests on the plate support, are spaced on 3-4 inch centers and were taped over the top of the rim. See attached photo.

Coming out was easy, but I am sweating dropping the plate on the rim when it goes back in like the last time I put one back [some unwanted veneer work there].  I don't have enough overhead height in the shop for a chain hoist so I am using a shop crane which is scary when it goes down to say the least! It works like an auto jack.

I have some longer sticks that would protrude above the rim about an inch and would line up the plate before it could get to where it could scratch anything. This would allow me to press the tail of the plate lower and then hold it against the sticks on the tail while my partner guided the front of the plate into place.  This would allow the maximum clearance for the front rim and stringer.  I like the idea of the guide rods. 

Another Idea that just occurred when you mentioned "uncured finishes" is to first make a u-shaped cardboard cap for the top of the rim and either tape the sticks to the under side of the cardboard or make stick-sized notches in the cardboard and put tape on both sides to suspend the sticks.  The cardboard would of course have to be un-corrigated in order to be thin enough.

I will appreciate your critique of these ideas.
Thanks in advance,
Warren

Warren Fisher- RPT
Navy Retired - Slidell, Louisiana 


From: Michael Spalding 
To: fishwar@bellsouth.net, Pianotech
Sent: 6/26/2005 2:52:35 PM 
Subject: Re: Plate handling, was Rebuching keys with thin mortise


Warren asks:
I have a question. How do you protect the inside of the rim while you are cycling the plate in and out. I have some ideas but would like to know what the consensus is on it.
Any or all of the following:
1.  carefullly align the hoist to the piano (or the piano to the hoist), including rotationally.
2.  slip some thin plastic (sections cut from trash can, scraps of vinyl siding, etc.) between the plate and the rim in the areas most likely to contact.  You can tape them to the rim with masking tape on old well cured finish, but not if it is very fresh and fragile.
3.  Stick some 1/4" diameter brass or steel rod through the plate holes into the rim bolt holes for gross alinment.
4.  Station an assistant across from you.
5.  Go slowly and check alignment often.
6.  The first time the plate is out, check around its perimeter for any roughness or bumps, sand or grind them smooth.

Mike
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