Naturally this is what I would have done if the crack did not meander as it does. No where near a straight line. At 08:32 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote: >Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of the >bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the panel, >put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar on >top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing on a >rib you will be gluing on the bridge). > >Make sense? > >Terry Farrell > > > > Dear list members, > > I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your advice once > > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a new > > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop for a time > > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the long > > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as it is > > now. I'd like to try and repair this but I question how to go about it. > > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long bridge to > > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack it free > > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's one >screw > > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor money.) > > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it seems > > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also, in one > > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard is > > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice? > > > > Greg Newell > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives Greg Newell Greg's piano Forté mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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