Greg, And the system is......................... Respectfully, William R. Monroe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 7:40 AM Subject: Re: Soundboard cracks under long bridge > Terry, > Jon Page just forwarded to me a system which I believe will cure > the problem. Thanks to one an all for you responses. > > Greg Newell > > > > At 08:28 AM 3/25/2005, you wrote: > >Sound like a perfect situation for the epoxy fill. I think maybe Del has > >some PTG Journal articles describing a technique - maybe someone else - > >maybe check the archives.With epoxy you can get all the way under the bridge > >also (squoosh/moosh application technique). > > > >I haven't tried it, but the process involves taping one side of crack (to > >act as a mold of sorts) and filling other side with thickened epoxy. Make > >sure the crack/epoxy is prepared for maximum adhesion (I would seriously > >consider the West System Two-Step Method). You can color West System epoxy > >to come pretty close to spruce. > > > >Terry Farrell > > > > > > > Naturally this is what I would have done if the crack did not meander as > >it > > > does. No where near a straight line. > > > > > > > > > > > > At 08:32 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote: > > > >Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of the > > > >bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the > >panel, > > > >put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar on > > > >top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing on > >a > > > >rib you will be gluing on the bridge). > > > > > > > >Make sense? > > > > > > > >Terry Farrell > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dear list members, > > > > > I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your advice > >once > > > > > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a new > > > > > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop for a > >time > > > > > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the long > > > > > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as it > >is > > > > > now. I'd like to try and repair this but I question how to go about > >it. > > > > > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long bridge > >to > > > > > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack it > >free > > > > > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's one > > > >screw > > > > > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor > >money.) > > > > > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it > >seems > > > > > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also, in > >one > > > > > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard is > > > > > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice? > > > > > > > > > > Greg Newell > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > Greg Newell > > > Greg's piano Forté > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > Greg Newell > Greg's piano Forté > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >
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