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Hi all,
Yesterday I lost almost the entire day servicing my
only-just-big-enough resaw bandsaw.
The saw has a 2hp motor with 45 mm (1.75") wide 500 mm (20") diameter
pressed steel wheels and a cast iron tilt table and adjustable fence.
I run a 2" wide Simons Red Streak blade, which has a 0.89 mm (35
thou) thick back with 20 thou of tooth set per side with tooth pitch
of 1". Theoretically the blade cuts a 75 thou curf, but after all the
vibration and blade flex is taken in account, the reality curf width
is around 100 thou (2.5 mm).
When I first bought the saw, being the commercial quality (read cheap
and nasty) item that it was, performance was less than startling.
After much fiddling getting everything shimmed up and straight, and
after building a custom roller bearing guide system for the upper
guide post and under the table, and speeding the blade up to 5,000
feet per minute, the saw remained an ordinary performer. After some
further reading I realised that the wheels, which were rubber tyred,
probably were not crowned properly and had axial run out. So I set to
work and ground the wheels with a 1 degree crown angle which peaked
at 1/3 width back from the font edge of the wheels. Bandsaw wheels
are usually crowned slightly closer to the front of the wheel to
allow them to properly track a thinner blade, should this be required.
It's been many years since I first crowned the bandsaw wheels.
However, over recent months the saw has been acting up and refusing
to track well. When a blade is cutting well it should never come in
contact with the back guide. But this started happening regularly and
over the weekend we lost an expensive piece of wood when a blade
stepped right forward off the wheels and had a chew at the cast iron
table.
A view of the saw showing the roller guide system. These are now
available as an accessory item. The roller guides shown were custom
made over fifteen years ago.
Should anyone wish to receive a higher resolution close image of the
guide rollers, email me privately. The images shown are re-sampled
lo-res to get them onto the pianotech list.
An examination of the wheels revealed that there was little wear of
the rubber tyres. But, while the original crowning machine marks
remained just visible, the crown was almost flat in the middle of the
wheel.
The industry standard for crowing steel band saw wheels is 1 degree
of crown. After reading a few articles on crowning wheels I found
that some recommend a crown angle of up to 7 degrees.
Four useful articles on band saw maintenance can be found at;
http://www.owwm.com/FAQ/Default.asp
I decided to re-crown the wheels to 1.5 degrees. A higher crown would
probably increase the stress on the blade back, and the original 1
degree of crown seemed to track reasonably well. I am very pleased to
report that the saw is now performing better than ever. We did a test
cut on an 8" (205 mm) deep board after re-assembly. The cut was
straight and the blade didn't budge from its free-running track
position during the cut.
A view of the wheel surface, shown against a square, clamped to the
housing, to show the crown of the freshly crowned tyre
While I often feel cheated of time when I lose a day doing something
like yesterday's bandsaw maintenance day, it was a different case
yesterday. Its most pleasing to have the saw performing better than
I could have imagined.
Now its back to work to finish the resawing I started over the weekend.
Ron O.
--
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
Grand Piano Manufacturers
_______________________
Web http://overspianos.com.au
mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au
_______________________
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