Hammer hanging glue and replacement butts for uprights.

[gordon stelter]

Yes. I guess you'd call it a "jack slap rail"  Here in
the U.S.,  each butt has a bit that hangs down for the
jack to slap against, with a little felt square fora 
cushion, in place of a  rail ( on most pianos ).
    A few pianos use te rail system.
     Thump


--- David Ilvedson <ilvey@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> That's "catchers" as in backchecks?  butt felt or
> butt cushion works...
> 
> David i.
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original message
> ----------------------------------------
> From: "Michael Gamble" <michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk>
> To: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>,
> pianotech@ptg.org
> Received: 9/13/2005 11:09:53 AM
> Subject: RE: Hammer hanging glue and replacement
> butts for  uprights.
> 
> 
> >Hello Thump
> >What's a "cather" and what should project down from
> it? Is the little felt
> >square a "butt cushion" or something in place of a
> "jack slap rail"? Is it
> >something I might come across in the UK?
> >How infuriatingly intriguing!!
> >Michael G.(UK)
> 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: gordon stelter [mailto:lclgcnp@yahoo.com] 
> >Sent: 13 September 2005 16:55
> >To: Pianotech
> >Subject: Hammer hanging glue and replacement butts
> for uprights.
> 
> >I just removed some of Wally Brooks' Abel hammers
> that
> >I was stoopid enough to hang on a  crappy set of
> those
> >Pratt-Win butts a few years ago. The butts were so
> >poorly drilled that a LOT of shank-bending was
> >necessary, so I decided to replace them with the
> >Tokiwa ones. 
> >    It seems to be a  "white" glue, like Elmer's,
> or
> >white Titebond. I very much liked the fact that
> >putting my elecric hammershank bender up near the
> >hammer heads softend the glue enough to remove them
> >neatly.
> >    A related question: I already have a  set of
> >Renner upright butts, with the integral spring, but
> am
> >reluctant to use them because:
> >1) The bridle straps are too short. I did a  piano
> >with these recently where the straps were so short
> >that the bridle wires on the butt had to be bent to
> be
> >in front of the backcheck wires. So I drilled a 
> new
> >hole in the tabs. If I ever use these again, I;ll
> glue
> >on my own straps.
> >2) The cathers don't have the projection hanging
> down,
> >with the little felt square for the jacks to bap
> >against, on hard playing.
> >     I get the impression that these butts are
> really
> >only for certain European actions.
> >    Comments?
> >     Thump
> 
> >     
> 
> >--- Erwinspiano@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >>  
> >> Dittos David.
> >>             Especially when we are considering
> how
> >> many times a set of key 
> >> bushings may be  replaced in a high use piano.
> ie. a
> >> set of front bushings  
> >> other year on  the glissando & heavy  use pianos.
> >> With Pvce it's a  miserable job 
> >> to get key bushings  out & it is  destructive 
> >> ususally removing mortise  wood 
> >> in the process  thereby changing the nicely
> machined
> >> dimensions of the 
> >> mortise. I consider  pvce glue for this
> >> application.......well... .... mal practice. 
> >> flame  suit on.
> >>   If this is what the asian pianos use for hammer
> 
> >> head/keybushings glue I 
> >> wish they'd use something else. It's an almost 
> >> impossible job to get the stuff 
> >> off & I've done this often when the shanks  are
> >> still basically pristine & 
> >> worth reusing.
> >>   We've used cold hide glue for hammer hanging
> for
> >> years  with great success. 
> >> It's easily reversible & easy to re-hang treble
> >> hammers  to tweak the strike 
> >> line for optimal power & sustain & I do this 
> often.
> >> It's working time is 
> >> wonderful & strength is plenty.  Just make sure
> it's
> >> in date.
> >>   Joe thanks for all the great info.
> >>   Dale Erwin
> >> 
> >> David Love said: "The nicest thing about  hide
> glue
> >> is the reversibility.  
> >> Removing  bushings
> >> glued in with PVC-E is a  pain.  Bushings glued
> in
> >> with hide glue will nearly
> >> fall out  when saturated with an application of
> >> water spiked with a small
> >> amount of  the surface tension reducer of your
> >> choice.  Hammer heads won't
> >> click  with hide glue if the fit is reasonable
> and
> >> if you apply it to both
> >> parts  before assembly (and if you use a bit of
> urea
> >> to be sure assembly
> >> takes  place before the two surfaces gel and
> won't
> >> bond as well).   I've
> >> recently tried using Franklin's Trim and Molding
> >> Glue for hammers and  it
> >> worked nicely.  But I had to remove a set glued
> on
> >> with it and  while it was
> >> no trouble to heat the joint and remove the
> hammer
> >> head, I  found it
> >> difficult to get all the old glue off the shank. 
> >> When heated  it turns into
> >> a kind of sticky rubber band that doesn't really
> >> come off  that easily.  The
> >> hide glue softens up nicely and can be heated to
> a 
> >> crystalline state where
> >> the poorly named "Hammer Shank Reducer" works 
> >> quickly and effectively to
> >> remove the old glue without "reducing the  shank
> >> 
> >> 
> >>  
> >> 
> 
> 
> 
> >		
> >__________________________________ 
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> 
> 
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