Thanks for the helpful ideas, Terry!
I'd just drillout the stuff, I guess, if it was
too much. I'd also rig some sort of guides up, to keep
the caul in the center of the keyfront, side-to-side.
Like maybe a couple of spring clamps lined up against
scribed lines, their tips acting as barriers to the
caul's possible movement.
Thanks!
G
--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Should work. I'd consider maybe enlarging the
> mortise and gluing in properly sized new wood if the
> piano was worth it. If it is low budget, your idea
> might work fine. I would recommend using #407
> Low-Density filler or their #410 Microlight filler.
> Best would be to paint the wood with unthickened
> epoxy and then use the filler mixed real thick -
> like peanut butter. I would experiment with a few
> junk keys. You need to have a technique so that you
> don't fill up the rest of the mortise with epoxy -
> so that the keypin doesn't end up bottoming out (I
> don't think the caul is deep enough). Also, install
> bushings in the repaired test key to make sure the
> glue sticks to the epoxy.
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
>
> >I have some keys with badly butchered mortices. I
> am
> > thinking of using West's with filler, putting
> Saran
> > wrap (TM) over the sizing caul and stuffing it
> into
> > the gunked up orifice.
> > Comments?
> > Thump
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