I may also try a wipe-on polyurethane/oil finish,
which looks nice on rosewood, and seems to react less
violenty with silicone than lacquer. Let you know.
Thump
--- Thomas Cole <tcole at cruzio.com> wrote:
> I haven't had any luck trying to "neutralize" or
> wash out silicone oil
> with solvents, including acetone. The usual fix is
> to put a little
> silicone (fish eye preventer) into what you're
> spraying.
>
> I just found an article on line that advises
> against fish eye preventer
> and advocates ammonia to clean a contaminated
> surface. It might be worth
> a try.
>
> Tom Cole
>
> William Benjamin wrote:
>
> >Have you tried neutralizing with paint thinner?
> >
> >William
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >PIANO BOUTIQUE
> >William Benjamin
> >Piano Tuner Extraordinaire
> >www.pianoboutique.biz
> >The tuner alone,
> >preserves the tone.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> >Of gordon stelter
> >Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 11:21 AM
> >To: Pianotech List
> >Subject: How do you subdue silicone in a finish?
> >
> >Dear List,
> > I'm trying to put a proper decal ( not
> mailbox
> >letters ) on the keycover of an 1880 Chickering.
> From
> >the ripples and fisheyes in the existing lacquer,
> it
> >is evident that prior to being poorly refinished,
> >silicone-contining polishes were used.
> > I wet sanded ( 600 grit silicone carbide with
> >naptha ) the existing finish flat, then tried to
> spray
> >a base coat of Deft lacquer, and it fisheyed all
> over
> >again. So I wet sanded it again, and tried spray
> >shellac. Same disgusting result.
> > I'm guessing that several really fine "mist
> >coats" of shellac or Deft would have to be sprayed,
>
> >until it creates a seal up over the
> silicone-permeated
> >lacquer underneath. Then decal, then full wet
> >topcoats. But I thought I'd ask y'all how you might
> >handle this stumper.
> > Thanks!
> > T
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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