Upright hammer shank length

[Britt West]

Terry,
     I usually use a method that I picked up from Bill Spulock.  I'm not 
sure if it was on his web site or at a convention class.  Put a wide 
strip of masking tape across the strings where the strike point will be 
from #1 to #88.  Measure down 1/8" from the center of the V Bar on note 
88 and that will usually be the sweet spot.  Put a small mark on the 
tape in exactly that spot.  I usually use the old hammer to mark note 
#1 and then put a straight edge across the whole thing and draw a line 
on the tape.  This may be more difficult to get # 1 without the old 
action.  You could measure up from a fixed point like the keybed.  The 
bass hammer strike point is not as critical and if you are going to be 
off slightly on one end that would be the one to do it on.  I leave the 
tape up during hammer installation and frequently check that the strike 
points are hitting the line especially the end ones that I mark with 
tape.  This method is very fast when installing pre hung hammers and 
shanks with the shanks pre cut to length.  ( I use Spurlock's upright 
hammer hanging jig)  I no longer use the originals as guides.  Just 
apply glue pop in new shank push hammer up to string to check 
alignment,  let it rest on Hammer Rest Rail and quickly check for 
evenness with neighbors with a small straight edge on hammer head and 
tail.  Spurlock also uses a wedge to block the rest rail closer to the 
strings.  On many uprights I will sweep up the lowest few tenor hammers 
to allow for longer damper felt.  Just draw the sweep on the tape.  If 
using a sweep you will need to shim the rest rail slightly under the 
longer shanks to keep the blow distance constant.
     Britt

Britt West, RPT

West Piano Service
2211 Flat Rock Road
Watkinsville, GA 30677
706-769-4060
706-338-9557

registered piano technician
Piano Technicians Guild