disrupted mortises

pianolady50 at peoplepc.com pianolady50 at peoplepc.com
Tue Dec 5 19:33:32 MST 2006


Either are nasty to remove and will yank the wood out with the old bushing 
and glue.  The *only* glue to use is hot animal hide.  And before anyone 
comments...yes, it has been acceptable to use yellow wood glue for in home 
spot repairs (and in the tech exam).  But *not* for a shop job.  All of us 
who do rebushing "for the trade" are used to dealing with that odd-ball 
keybushing that refuses to release for whatever reason.  An entire set is a 
nightmare and adds considerably to the labor/cost of the job.  Mike gave 
excellent advice as to the options.

Debbie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan R. Barnard"
> Are you sure it wasn't white glue, i.e., Elmers? I don't know how 
> different they'd look when dry like that. Anyway, it seems to me that 
> PVC-E is somewhat less, shall we say, tenacious than Elmers when trying to 
> remove old stuff.
>
> Alan Barnard
> Salem, MO
> Joshua 24:15
>
>
>
> ----- Original message ----------------------------------------
> From: "ed miller" <edmiller3 at hotmail.com>
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Received: 12/05/2006 7:12:54 PM
> Subject: disrupted mortises
>
>
>>Hello,
>
>>I'm doing a key re-bushing job. The front rail bushings were glued in with
>>PVC-E glue. Many mortises were compromised by wood staying on the felt as 
>>I
>>pulled the felt away.
>
>>Any suggestions on what I can do as/or before I glue in the new felt with
>>hot hide to ensure an even job from key to key?  I have been testing the
>>keys for the best felt-fit with my brass cauls, there are drastic
>>differences of fit from key to key thanks to all the wood that was removed
>>as I was removing the PVC-E'd felt.
>
>>Thanks,
>>Ed
>
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>>AM
>
> 




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