Thanks for all the info! I think I'm in the "use more" camp. I'm amazed at how much I can get in there when the piano is still upright. Keep in mind, though, that the wood is sticking out from the plate. I wouldn't try this if the wood were completely behind the plate and I couldn't see the glue go into the wood. Thanks again for all the responses! -mags > Hi Maggie, > > Its ten years since I did the first CA glue on a piano--it's still holding > up just fine. I do recommend humidity control at the highest possible > level > after treatment. (but then I recommend that to all pianos). > > There have been few horror stories about CA treatment and a multitude of > successes, so certainly this is now a valid repair for any piano. If it > doesn't work little has been lost, and if it does work much time and > effort > have been saved. > > There do seem to be "two camps" for treatment developing. > > The "use lots" (of which I am a member, but for no documented reason), and > the "little dab ul do ya". > > Use lots camp requires tipping for uprights, and often as not I'll treat > the bridges for hair line cracking at the same time. > > For bridges I find that an application of "thin" seals the wood, and I > then > follow up with "medium" to gap fill. > > I start with the bridges, and then do the first application to the pins. > By > then the thin coat on the bridges has "set up" and I apply "medium". Then > I > do a second application of thin to pins, and I check the bridges again and > apply more medium as needed. Finally I do a third generous application to > the pins that have wound strings. > > I've had more than a few rural clients do this application themselves. The > "record" application was 12 ounces with good results. The "record" for a > single pin was someone who applied 2.5 ounces to a single pin--I suspect > he > was filling a huge separation or crack in the block. > > > > > At 04:10 AM 2/12/2006 +1300, you wrote: >>OK... I'm back to experimenting... (I have access to lots of junked >>pianos that have been "trashed" but can't be disposed of easily because >> of >>state policies affecting our local college.) >> >>I had success with CA gluing an upright pinblock without putting it on >>it's back. It actually worked. I used Q-tips to catch any drips, which >> I >>was pretty good at avoiding. I used Stew-Mac pipettes to apply the glue, >>because the small tip could fit into the gaps between the pins and the >>wood, and because if it looked like I might drip, I could suck the glue >>back in. Once the wood soaked up as much as it could, the glue "puddled" >>in the gaps without dripping. >> >>I don't know if I want to try this on a good piano, and may never, but >>it's interesting... Any thoughts? >> >>-mags >> >> >>Maggie Jusiel > > Regards, > Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T. > Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat > > mailto:pianotuna@yahoo.com http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ > > 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7 > 306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner > > Maggie Jusiel Piano Tuner Winds & Strings Teacher PO Box 1234 Athens, WV 24712-1234 (304)952-8615 <mags@magsmusic.net> <http://www.magsmusic.net> <http://www.casparwicky.net/quotepage.html>
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