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Hi everyone,
I got a call today from a lady who told me that there is evidence of =
mice in the piano, or past mouse activity. I'm going over to take a =
look at the piano tomorrow. Actually, she's willing to pick me up. She =
drives Mercedes, an old one she tells me. If the spelling is incorrect, =
blame my wife.:) =20
Anyway, I won't do anything with the keys and action of the bridal =
straps are missing until I learn that repair. However, I want to =
accomodate her the best I can. She wants it tuned, but a couple of keys =
will go down but not up. I'm guessing there's a mouse nest in the key =
bed, however, is there something I can do in order to give that key a =
quick free up so it will go back up before I learn that bridal strap =
repair etc? Also, I read in one of our past journals some time back =
that lavender placed inside the piano helps keep mice away. Where do I =
purchase lavender? =20
I apologize if this is a question already exists in the archives as one =
guy on here reamed mb about a while back, but i'ts a lot easier than =
hunting down an archive. Thanks so much everyone.=20
Marshall
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Aart in America Piano Services=20
To: Pianotech List=20
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 7:15 PM
Subject: harpsichord
Hi Blaine.
Thank you so much for taking the time to compose this very =
informative and helpful email.
The directions you have provided are invaluable!
I'll let you and the other good folks on the list know how it comes =
out.
Very best regards,
Aart
Aart in America Piano Services
Hoboken, N.J. 07030
201 406 2594
aartinamerica@optonline.net
On Feb 16, 2006, at 9:01 AM, Blaine Vesely wrote:
Aart,
I get pianotech in digest form and have minimal time to read =
everything, but your post prompted this email. Don't even worry about =
taking inharmonicity measurements with a SAT2 since the machine does not =
go below 2.0 I think. A harpsichord modelled after an old Baroque =
French Double (sounds like this is the kind you will be working on) will =
not have much inharmonicity. Just use the 4th octave settings on your =
SAT to tune from B4 to the bottom of the harpsichord. A4 will be more =
toward the treble than the bass side of the keyboard assuming a compass =
of F to F. Probably the second A from the top of the range on the =
keyboard. When you tune the C5 to top of the keyboard, you may have to =
insert some stretch alittle, but not much. You can use the individual =
settings and tune the notes directly, like set machine to D5 and tune =
D5, D#5 and tune D#5. This gets you in the ballpark pretty much. Then =
use your ear to test if some stretch is needed. On a French Double, you =
will have two 8 foots and a 4 foot. I usually tune the top manual. It =
will only operate one set of 8 foot strings. You must make sure the top =
keyboard is coupled. Slide the whole keyboard front or back and it will =
couple the keyboard to the jacks. When you get the top manual tuned, =
then play the bottom manual. Make sure you only have the second set of =
8 foot strings coupled, and not the 4 foot. Tune unisons using the =
bottom keyboard. Usually the 8 foot strings are the tuning pins closest =
to the player. Then turn off the 8 foot (lever that moves the jacks) =
and turn on the 4 foot and tune. The top 4 foot strings are hard =
sometimes to hear and you may have to uncouple the top manual and tune =
octaves with just the 4 foot, usually it is only the last several =
strings because they are so quiet and high pitched.=20
Concerning tuning pins, if you have to replace a string, you =
really have to back out the tuning pin all the way if it has tapered =
tuning pins. If it has what look like miniature tuning pins that are =
straight, then put coils on a dummy pin and then copy what the other =
strings look like. I have not done any stringing with pins that have no =
becket, to if that is the case, you will just have to practice and when =
you get comfortable with it, go back to the customer. The pins =
generally for harpsichords that are of a traditional nature are designed =
to get tighter when tapped in and thus tapered. So take the pin out, =
put the string in (you might want to take the jacks out) and cut it =
maybe 8 inches longer than the tuning pin. Copy the way the string is =
on the pin and it helps to maintain adequate tension when coiling the =
string on the pin, and drive the pin in the hole. I have also been told =
that when you bring the string up to tension that you should leave it a =
little bit under pitch, maybe 50 - 100 cents for a few minutes. Someone =
told me that it does something to the molecules in the iron strings and =
makes it stronger. Then bring it up to full tension. Oh yes, the low =
inharmonicity and lower pitch when stringing thing I just talked about =
applies to instruments with red, yellow brass and iron strings. If you =
know that the instrument has steel strings or has strings that are =
wound, then there is probably more inharmonicity and will need some =
stretch eventually in tuning. One way to tell iron from steel is that =
when you bend or kink iron, it will be easier to bend and will give you =
a definite kink. Steel is harder to put a kink in it.
Some fast thoughts, have fun with it.
Blaine Vesely, Piano Technician
Kent State University
School of Music
Kent, Ohio 44242
office: 330-672-2898
fax: 330-672-7837
email: bvesely@kent.edu
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