I've done a lot of players, and have found lacquer
thinner to be very good for verdigris removal (
soaking valves in gallon paint cans of the stuff ),
so I wonder why you'd use
111 trichloroethane ??? Soaking the wippens in
lacquer thinner also ought to rinse out whatever it
was that Steinway used as a lubricant which reacts
with the center pins and causes the verdigris, and to
dissolve a lot of the exterior dirt without
sandblasting or using the Super-Clean (TM) method.
Super-Clean (TM) truly works wonderfully, but is
probably not a good idea on a fine grand. I use it
primarily for filthy, unavailable player piano wippens
where a little distortion of the center pin bore is
not a crisis. I'd be worried about grain-induced
"ovalization" of this hole on a fine "hand-play"
piano.
I'd put as many wippens into a metal gallon paint
cans as I could, fill them up and let them soak for a
day. Then I'd shake them around and pour the dirty
thinner into other cans through a strainer.
Starting fluid ( ether ) is also less nasty than
111 trichloroethane. I have used it to blast out
centers
( it comes with that groovy little red tube ) and it
seems to work quite well.
I have some REALLY gooey and moldy Steinway
wippens to experiment on, so I'll try a few things and
report what seems to work best.
G
--- Nichols <nicho@zianet.com> wrote:
> Well, Dale, as we say here-bouts........ Nada. Zip.
> No-ting.
> We replace the cloth and the pins, and we haven't
> had any problems. Perhaps
> our 18% ambient RH helps. Don't know. We've been
> rebushing S&S verdigris
> parts for six years, although much more in the last
> year, and haven't
> gotten any feedback about re-infection. In years
> past (30ish), I never had
> any problem even when I just repinned, so long as I
> washed the cloth with
> 1,1,1, TCE. Not the friendliest stuff to have
> around, but effective and
> safe when used carefully.
> If you'd like, I'll send you a sample, and you can
> try to induce verdigris
> in your climate. It would be neat to find out, no?
> I agree that using the high quality original, (often
> lighter), part is nice
> when the geometry is right. I really like whips from
> the teens and
> twenties. The sandblasting doesn't make them white,
> and I would hate to use
> bleach, but they look just fine. All new cloth and
> skin, burnished jack
> tips and balance, etc.
>
> Again, let me know if you want a sample. I guess
> that goes for anyone that
> has a serious interest, although I can imagine
> Salvador's face when I tell
> him we need to do another couple of hundred
> freebies!
>
> Later,
> Guy Nichols
>
>
>
>
> At 11:53 AM 12/27/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> > Guy wrote
> > Shameless plug on the wippens. If you're not
> switching heels or
> >turbo-izing, consider having them rebuilt. In a lot
> of cases, the weight
> >and geometry of the original is good, and we
> completely rebuild a whole set
> >for about 400 bucks. Sandblasted, all new bushing
> felts, heel cloth,
> >springs, buttons, etc., etc. Like I said, shameless
> plug.
> >
> > Hi Guy
> > Yes but what have you done to neutralize the
> green goo,..green
> > slime... verti-green fuzzy stuff , ...green
> grit....... Steinway curse.
> > Ahh ,Yes I've done this to shanks including re
> bushing & it comes back
> > in less than a year, what a waste of time. And
> as for the wippens if
> > it comes back then I've spent $400 for what
> .......eg-zacctly?
> > Guy , In principle I love this idea because
> except for the green shluck
> > these are perfectly good & expensive Maple parts
> were all throwing out.
> > Know what I mean?
> > Maybe we could figure out a cheap way to just
> cut off the birds eye &
> > insert a new one with uncontaminated wood & voila
> I can use all those
> > old parts I've saved for years.
> > Tell me more about how you neutralized the green
> schtuff. You got my
> > attention. again
> > Sincerely
> > Dale Erwin
>
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC