Slow Hammer Return

[Avery]

Michelle,

About 35 yrs. ago when I was first learning, 
Aubrey Willis (probably unknown to you) told me 
something that helped me many times: "Always 
remember that when you can't figure out what a 
given problem is on a note, that you have 87 
other notes to compare it to and see what's different about that one"!

Avery Todd
University of Houston

At 05:33 PM 6/3/2006, you wrote:
>  Michelle,
>
>Check for tightness in any parts, not just 
>flanges.  It could be in the sticker guide rail 
>bushings as well.  Or, as John Ross suggested, 
>there may be hammer return springs broken.  They 
>come off when we  pull dropped mutes out of the 
>action.  When that happens, most of us put them 
>back in the slot most of the time....
>
>I doubt if keys are tight on a piano that's that old, but it's worth a look.
>
>Isolate the different functions to check for 
>sluggishness.  AFter awhile you'll be able to diagnose things fairly quickly.
>
>Dave Stahl
>
>
>Dave Stahl Piano Service
>650-224-3560
>dstahlpiano at sbcglobal.net
>http://dstahlpiano.net/
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michelle Smith <michelle at cdaustin.com>
>To: 'Pianotech List' <pianotech at ptg.org>
>Sent: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 16:34:35 -0500
>Subject: RE: Slow Hammer Return
>
>Actually, I was wrong.  It’s not the Wood & 
>Brooks.  It’s the spinet with the wooden 
>inverted stickers instead of lifter 
>wires/elbows.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = 
>"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
>Thanks for all of the great information.
>(I also found some stuff in the Technical Exam Source Book.)
>
>Michelle
>
>
>
>
>
>----------
>From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org 
>[mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Farrell
>Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 4:25 PM
>To: Pianotech List
>Subject: Re: Slow Hammer Return
>
>"BTW whats an Inverted Direct Blow? Is it upside down?"
>
>I assume she is talking about one of 
>those....... Brooks action is it? I think the name is something like that.
>
>"How long is a soaking? Are you submerging the 
>entire part into this mixture or are you just soaking the center with drops?"
>
>Drops. I tend to be pretty liberal with my drops 
>- just want to be sure to get the bushings good 
>and soaked. Just make sure you don't soak the 
>butt leather off (DAMHIK! - although I wonder, 
>was that worse than the time I filled all the 
>key pin mortices on a set of keys with water to 
>soak the bushings out? Wanna know how to 
>plump-up a set of keys?). Actually, what I do is 
>get my aim calibrated, set the action to where I 
>have access, and squeeze my squirt bottle (fine 
>tip) and just run a stream of it right up the 
>whole action in one direction on the butt 
>centers. Then I squeeze again and run it right 
>across all the butt/flange centers the other 
>way. I might repeat that. Then I'll target 
>another action center if needed - check them all - jacks, dampers, etc.
>
>"Are there any other causes I should look for before I try soaking?"
>
>Well, you need to do the standard checks. 
>Isolate the keys from the action - which one is 
>slow? Remove a couple butts and check flange 
>friction. Just isolate all the moving parts and 
>you should be able to identify with confidence 
>exactly where the problem is (or where the problems are).
>
>I'll put a fan on when I let them dry overnight 
>- put the fan on low and not even point it 
>directly at the action. I've had real good luck 
>with it. Often one application makes the magic 
>work completely. Sometimes it will only get 80% 
>of the centers and you need to do it again. Even 
>then sometimes I'll have to Protek a few centers to get them all working.
>
>Terry Farrell
>
>
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