RH problem--- Dampp-Chaser humidistat will NOT run a room dehumidifier!

[gordon stelter]

   Someone here said it would, and that's not true.
The DC humidistat has a 200 Watt limit. You could, of
course, run it to a relay which then turned the
dehumidifier on and off. ( see "Grainger Industrial
Supply" ) This became of interest after a stuck-on
Kenmore dehumidifier damaged a very clean, well-made
Bjur grand that I had just purchased! Dried it out
quite badly. I was also interested in this for better
accuracy in humidity control.
     Well, I just took the humidistat from the Kenmore
dehumidifier out, and the problem was immediately
apparent: the hydroscopic nylon strip which grows and
shrinks with humidity changes is supposed to be in a 
loop, with the ends glued together. It pulls on a 
switch which turns tthe compressor on and off. The
ends came unglued, so it stayed "on" all the time. I
just emailed the maker (DNA Group in N.C. ) and asked
them for a new switch. I also asked them to pay for
the piano. 
( Please wish me luck! )

     G
     

--- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> Not trying to be argumentative, but a vapor barrier
> will not solve this 
> problem. The condensation is from water vapor in the
> air inside the room. If 
> the room is at 40% RH and 72 degrees, it has a
> certain amount of water vapor 
> in the air - whether more vapor is coming into the
> room and being removed by 
> a dehumidifier or whether the room is vapor-sealed
> and at 40% RH with no 
> humidifier or dehumidifier operating. When air under
> those conditions is 
> chilled to 46 degrees, condensation form - no need
> for additional vapor to 
> enter the room. Presumably it is insulation you need
> - not a vapor barrier.
> 
> However, a vapor barrier is likely always a good
> thing to have - will help 
> keep your room conditions constant and minimize the
> work a climate-control 
> system has to do with humidity - but the specific
> problem here is 
> insulation.
> 
> Or a warmer climate. Just wait a few years. Unless
> of course the Gulf Stream 
> stops.......
> 
> Terry Farrell
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Thanks Chistopher, Terry... and Don.
> >
> > I wonder if you could expound a bit on exactly
> what a vapor barrier is... 
> > is that like a space of dead air in between double
> panes of window glass ?
> >
> > Terry... about the Farhenheit bit.... I was
> speaking Amerilish for youz 
> > guys's benifit you see... :)
> >
> > Cheers and thanks.
> > RicB
> >
> > Responding as an architect, I asked a senior
> technical architect in our
> > office for his thoughts. He agrees with Mr.
> Farrell. The building
> > envelop needs a vapor barrier. If it is a hot
> humid climate, the barrier
> > should go to the outside. If it is a cold dry
> climate, like here, it
> > should go towards the inside.
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > My best guess is that the ceiling and upper walls
> are poorly insulated.
> > These are outside walls? The dew point for 40% RH
> and 72 degrees F is 46
> > degrees. So if it was 36 degrees F outside and the
> walls were around 40
> > degrees F or so, condensation will occur on the
> walls.
> >
> > I thought Europeans used the Celsius scale for
> temperature.
> >
> > Terry Farrell
> > 
> 
> 
> 


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