stripping question

[Greg Newell]

Loren,
         Like most engineers you are very 
thorough in your communication. I understand that 
you are using solvents in an attempt to strip 
away some previous finish. I mistakenly had the 
impression that you somehow knew which finish had 
been used and therefor which solvent to use ahead of time. My mistake.
         I wonder, in saving yourself from the 
evils of all the various solvents by using your 
heat gun, aren't you exposing yourself to toxic smoke/fumes? Which is worse?

best,
Greg


At 11:32 PM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>Greg, I'm sorry, I don't respond on this page 
>often and keep forgetting that my identity doesn't automatically get posted.
>
>I am Loren Hedahl, reside in Silverdale, 
>Washington, am a retired electrical engineer, 
>became interested in rebuilding pianos several 
>years ago compliments of a favorite son who 
>acquired several a few years ago and deposited 
>them . . .  well, you get the picture, pianos 
>everywhere kind of like weeds.  Now that he's 
>out of the picture working at a real job also as 
>an electrical engineer, I have some options on 
>how to dispose of these.  I have chosen to 
>rebuild most of them, whether to my financial advantage or not.
>
>The local Puget Sound Guild Chapter kindly 
>allowed me into their group a little over a year 
>ago.  I'm sure I have been more of a deficit 
>than an asset to them during this year and a 
>half, however perhaps I can contribute a little 
>now since I was recently elected to be their 
>chapter secretary.  Not quite sure what I'm 
>getting myself into.  I'll have to see if I can still spell and take notes.
>
>Concerning identifying an existing finish, try a 
>little alcohol in a non-criical area.  If it 
>begins to disolve the finish it is probably 
>shellac.  If that doesn't work, try lacquer 
>thinner.  If that works, it is likely a 
>lacquer.  I found in my experimentation that 
>lacquer thinner dissolves water borne lacquer readily also.
>
>When you get to the various varnishes and the 
>cross-linked stuff like conversion lacquer or 
>conversion varnish, two-part polyurethane clear 
>coat, polyesther, etc., things get really 
>dicey.  Methylene chloride seems to work on almost everything.
>
>The problem is, have you ever met an elderly 
>fellow in apparent good health that did auto or 
>furniture refinishing for a living during all 
>his working years?  From what I've read none of 
>the solvents are good for your 
>health.  Methylene chloride is about the 
>worst.  I've never heard of a piano that was 
>worth more than my health, especially the clunkers in my back forty.
>
>So that is why I am perfectly happy to risk 
>burning up or loosening the veneer with my heat 
>gun to avoid contact with the strippers that are 
>usually used.  I am also working on a finishing 
>method using locally procured water borne 
>finishes.  Actually this venture is very 
>interesting and exciting to me.  I also have a 
>deep respect and appreciation for craftsmen who 
>restore historically valuable instruments to 
>their original glory and for those who make a 
>living tuning pianos with nothing but a tuning fork, a wrench and some mutes.
>
>To get more familiar with wood finishing, you 
>might like to check out some of the woodworker 
>forums -- I like Sawmill Creek, but there are 
>several others.  The book I like best is "The 
>New Wood Finishing Book" by Michael Dresdner, 
>but again there are many others.  Hope this answers your questions.
>
>Loren Hedahl

Greg Newell
Greg's Piano Forté
mailto:gnewell at ameritech.net
www.gregspianoforte.com