finishing a workbench

[Joseph Garrett]

William said: "Pure 
Tung Oil is generally considered too soft and thin to resist scratching or 
water vapor exchange well.
 
               This has not been my experience, at all!

So, if you opt for Tung-Oil, choose a 
polymerized Tung-Oil. It can be built up thicker.

       This is true, but not suggested, for the reasons you state, below.

 However, polymerized 
oils, in general cure much quicker and can be difficult to work with on 
large surfaces.
 
Oil/Varnish mixes (many "Danish Oil" or "Antique Oil" finishes) are
slightly 
better, but still cure soft and do not offer as much protection as some 
other products, like:
 
Harder curing wiping varnishes are more durable than straight oil finishes 
(e.g. Watco Wipe on Poly, General Finishes Seal-a-Cell).

         Using Varnish will create far more work than I'd care to get in
to, in the process of the annual "rejuvination". Definately would not be my
recommendation.
I've been using Tung Oil for over 40 years, on various items. It is not a
good finish for furniture, IMO. However, it is far better than Linseed Oil,
which is impossible to control. The Tung Oil I use is Hope's Pure Tung Oil.
I still have the original can that I bought for my work bench 30 years ago.
It's half empty.<g> Obviously, it has a good shelf life and it has served
me very well for my very expensive Work Bench. (Today, it would cost
upwards of $800.00 to build it!) I would not be espousing the Tung Oil if
it didn't do what I said it would. Try it, you'll love it.<G>
Regards,

Joseph Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I