I had a Samick Wurly with seizing damper under-levers and treating them with heat, soldering iron to the pin, freed them up for as long as I owned the piano without any reoccurrence. Some caution should be used. Treat both sides rather than get so hot that both sides are treated, one charred. Andrew Anderson At 09:15 AM 10/6/2006, you wrote: > >......... Rebushing might, but I would not put an iron-clad > > guarantee on it unless the entire flange were replaced, knowing how > > silicone "creeps." > >I really have to disagree on this one. Think about it.....Why did >Wurlitzer use the Sillycone in the first place? Answer because their >pinning consisted of poor techniques..i.e. jamming an oversized pin >into a flange bushing that was not reamed to the proper size. It >eliminated a step in the pinning process. They saved money on Labor! >Their answer was Silicone. As for the silicone "creeping", where is >it going to "Creep"? Onto the hammer rail, most likely. Then where? >My answer: No place of any consideration. Some seem to think this is >the Invasion of The Blob or sumpin'...Sheesh! It is not that big a >deal. There are a plethora of Wurlys out there, that have had this >done to them and they work as well as any other PSO, IMO. My >experience has been that proper re-pinning takes care of the initial >problem...permanently. >Respectfully, > >Joseph Garrett, R.P.T. >Captain, Tool Police >Squares R I >
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