More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib?

[gordon stelter]

Because this rib will be put under stress again, and
the split is NOT on an old glue joint, I'm intending
to use the CE stuff that Coleman sells. I don't
consider hide glue, hot or cold, of adequate strength
for this application.
     Thump

P.S. Coleman said he "uses it all the time" for
applications such as this.

--- ed440 at mindspring.com wrote:

> Alan-
> 
> Depends on just what you mean by "here."
> 
> For a buzzing rib in a dying piano with no rebuild
> value in a school struggling to recover from
> Katrina, I would use whatever would work fast and
> easy. (Probably CE, and I might press the rib up
> with a wedge or stick to the floor or just my hand
> for the minute it takes the glue to bond.
> 
> For repair, rebuilding or restoration of a preWWII
> instrument, working in my shop, I would probably use
> cold hide glue.  (First I would test glue some scrap
> wood over night to make sure my glue was still
> good.)  A failed hide glue joint usually has glue
> dust or flakes. You can't fully clean it without
> disassembling the joint.  Cold hide glue is fairly
> thin, easy to inject and will dissolve the glue
> dust.  It gives you plenty clamping time and can be
> reversed later with water and heat.   
> 
> To use Titebond you need to get the joint cleaned,
> it is a bit thicker than cold hide glue and harder
> to reverse, should that be desired, and you've got
> to clamp faster.
> 
> On a Kimball Classic with a soundboard coming loose
> along the spine, I used Titebond and quickly clamped
> with a strip of quarter round and drywall screws. 
> This job was done on site.
> 
> On a rare 19th century piano I'd consider refering
> the job to a conservator trained to deal with
> historic instruments or at least getting
> specialist's advice on what to do (or not do).
> 
> I would not use the peanut butter stuff.  For gaps I
> like polyfiber in epoxy. For cosmetic reconstruction
> try Wood Rebuilder.
> 
> Just my opinions.
> 
> Ed Sutton
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
> >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 3:42 PM
> >To: pianotech at ptg.org
> >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for
> cracked rib?
> >
> >----- This is a forwarded message
> ----------------------------------------
> >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
> >To: ed440 at mindspring.com, pianotech at ptg.org
> >Received: 10/30/2006 12:35:29 PM
> >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for
> cracked rib?
> >
> >
> >Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here?
> (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.)
> >
> >And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance:
> When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel
> adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter?
> >
> >Alan Barnard
> >Salem, MO
> >Joshua 24:15
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original message
> ----------------------------------------
> >From: ed440 at mindspring.com
> >To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> >Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM
> >Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib?
> >
> >
> >>Gordon-
> >
> >>When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean
> "separated," not "split."
> >
> >>Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in
> a situation like this. It will soften and 
> >>combine with any hide glue that is in the joint. 
> Hide glue is not gap-filling.  (I just 
> >>came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who
> has spent 50 years as a hide glue 
> >>chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of
> hide glue are an Internet myth.  
> >><www.bjorn.net>  He may be the only source of
> genuine graded hide glues for 
> >>instrument and restoration work.)
> >
> >>For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka
> Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and 
> >>shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a
> bit slower.  Jim Coleman, Jr. and a 
> >>few other specialty distributors sell it.
> >
> >>In either case you may want to drill a hole for
> access to the joint and inject the glue 
> >>right into the center of the problem.
> >
> >>Ed Sutton
> 
> 



 
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