Action Position Adjustment

[Farrell]

Action too far forward because the hammers are hitting the string at the capo.

No I didn't "lifting the keyframe at the front to tip the hammer back in a bit". I see what you are suggesting - I remember enough of high school geometry to understand that. Good idea. Wish I had thought of that. But I still think the hammers are hitting the capo.

The cheekblocks have an adjustment where they hold the keyframe - it is adjusted all the way forward. If I plane a bit off the back of the keyframe, then I can take advantage of the adjustment in the cheekblocks - I think that will solve the problem.

Good suggestion on the sharps. I will check that out before pursuing the simple solution. Thanks big time (Not sure II would have thought of that!).

Terry Farrell
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  When you say "clearly the action is too far forward"...how did you come to that conclusion?
  Did you experiment but lifting the keyframe at the front to tip the hammer back in a bit?   That would tell you if that is the problem...I think IF the action does need to go in a bit...planeing the back of the key frame is doable, but the cheekblocks are not going to move and neither is the fallboard...make sure you have space between the sharps and fallboard...really, I'm thinking the best thing to is to rehang the top two sections with more of overbore to get them away from the capo...

  David Ilvedson, RPT
  Pacifica, CA 94044





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  Original message
  From: Farrell 
  To: pianotech at ptg.org
  Received: 9/1/2006 2:06:27 PM
  Subject: Action Position Adjustment


  Older Kawai grand. The piano lacks tone in the top two octaves - progressively gets worse toward C88. Cearly, C88 is hitting the string at the capo - clearly the action is too far forward. However, the key bed has three or four wooden stop blocks screwed to it that prevent the action from being moved further back (what are those blocks called?). I have not run into this before. What is the best fix? Removing, plugging, and redrilling the stop blocks would be difficult in the cramped quarters of the action cavity. Should I just carefully plane/cut off a few millimeters from the rear rail of the action frame and then position with the adjustable thingees (what are they called?) in the cheek blocks? 

  Seems to me it's one or the other. Any better suggestions? Thanks.

  Terry Farrell
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