Damper tray flange screw

piannaman at aol.com piannaman at aol.com
Sun Apr 22 19:41:50 MDT 2007


  I would think that Kawai might be more forthcoming than Steinway with info about it... but you never know. Here's the text, minus the photos with a few brief alterations. It should be pretty easy to visualize, but if not, as I said, I'll send you a copy.
 
 1. Remove Music Rack, cheek blocks, keyslip and action from piano.
 2. Remove pedal rod from pedal socket
 3. Turn damper lever stop hook out of the way
 4. Remove screw holding sostenuto lever pitman (small phillips)
 5. check to see that damper pitman is clear of damper tray
 6. Starting at bass end, remove sostenuto blade retainer plates form each of first three sostenuto rod brackets. Note directon of the (detent???) in the retainer plate for later reassembly. The rod will slide (to the left) away from the last (treble) bracket, making removal of the last retainer plate optional. Note: it is not necessary to remove the sotenuto pitman from the sostenuto blade. Also, the sostenuto blade bushings should remain factory-glued to the sostenuto brackets. No force should be required for this operation.
 7. Using long phillips screwdriver, unscrew damper lift rail assembly from bulkhead by loosening the four screws which attach the damper lift rail. These are located at the bass and treble ends of the damper lift rail, and at each scale break.
 8. With one hand underneath the damper tray, tilt the tray down and forward, while raising the rear of the tray slightly. With free hand, remove two screws from damper lift rail flange block(s). This will require inserting the (#2) 8" phillips screwdriver between to adjacent GROUPS of strings (not between unisons!). Note(remove any dampers which might prevent access to these screws.
 9. Pivot damper lift rail flange block up and out of the way to gain access to the flange screw. Remove the damper lift rail flange block screw. Note: sometimes a film of glue will be between the end of the damper lift rail cloth and one edge of the damper lift rail flange block. If this is the case, carefully cut the glue line with a sharp knife or razor blade.
 10-. If replacing only flange, inspect block to assure that there is no hairline crack running across the rear (adjacent to center pin), which will cause the center pin in the new flange to "walk out" in a very short time. Otherwise repin new flange into position observing customary methods; (center pin tight in wooden part of block, enough to NOT allow block to fall of its own weight).
 
 11. Replace new damper lift rail flange block in reverse order of above procedure. 
 
 12. Check damper upstop rail. It may have been forced up out of its proper position. The damper upstop rail is intended to stop DAMPER travel, not pedal travel. Proper positioning is to adjust a sharp key at various points on the keybed, allowing about 1mm of extra damper travel above the distance the damper travels from the key. The pedal travel should then be adjusted using the capstan screw underneath the piano, to correspond exactly to the damper travel from the sharp keys; i. e., damper lift should be the same from the pedal as from the key. 
 
 (I personally find it easier to adjust pedal travel before upstop rail; that way you can adjust the upstop rail by gauging it from damper lift from pedal with the action out, which it is when your setting upstop height anyway!)
 
 Hope this is useful to you and others on the list,
    Dave Stahl, RPT
 
 Dave Stahl Piano Service
 650-224-3560
 dstahlpiano at sbcglobal.net
 http://dstahlpiano.net/
 
 
 
 
 
    
 -----Original Message-----
 From: chadwick61 at cox.net
 To: pianotech at ptg.org
 Sent: Sun, 22 Apr 2007 1:11 PM
 Subject: Re: Damper tray flange screw
 
  Thank you Dave. I'll try to get something from Kawai or S&S/Boston first. If I come up empty I'd like to get a copy of your technical bulletin. I can think of several other pianos in my care that need attention to this area.    David C.  Las Vegas  ----- Original Message -----  From: piannaman at aol.com  To: pianotech at ptg.org  Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 9:10 AM Subject: Re: Damper tray flange screw 
  Hi David,
 
 I got some technical info from Kawai awhile back. They have a little kit with a technical bulletin attached for replacing the damper flange blocks. I suspect it's the same as on your Boston. In it is the information you will need to gain access to the necessary screws, as well as information on replacing the blocks, flanges, and pedal system adjustments.
 
 I can copy it for you and send it along, or you can see if you can get a similar bulletin from Boston.
 
 Let me know if you'd like me to send you a copy. I was unable to compress the file to a small enough size to make it practical to send via e-mail, but I might be able to figure out how to fax the thing, or snail mail it if necessary. 
 
 
    Dave Stahl, RPT
 
 Dave Stahl Piano Service
 650-224-3560
 dstahlpiano at sbcglobal.net
 http://dstahlpiano.net/
 
 
 
 
 
    
 -----Original Message-----
 From: chadwick61 at cox.net
 To: pianotech at ptg.org
 Sent: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 10:38 PM
 Subject: Damper tray flange screw
 
   Does anyone have a special tool or trick to tighten the flange screw that the damper tray is mounted to? (see photo) The piano is a Boston GP-156 about 3 years old. The complaint was that the notes were in continuous sustain mode. I operated the pedal and heard many little clicking noises. Upon inspection all of the underlever flanges were just about ready to fall out. Every screw in the piano was loose. It was stored in a garage for several months while the client was building their home and out here in Las Vegas it is usually a death sentence in the summer months as it drastically dries out any moisture content that the wood might have and shrinking away from the fasteners.   It looks impossible to get any kind of a tool on the screw head without removing the entire underlever system..... or maybe I'm missing something obvious. Any help will be greatly appreciated.    David C   
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