Wisdom of pulling/epoxying non-speaking portion bridge pins ???

[Prof. Euphonious Thump]

Thanks!
G


--- Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote:

> 
> >       On this 1902 Ivers and Pond upright, pretty
> much
> > all the speaking-length bridge pins had small
> cracks
> > emanating from them,  and so I'm pulling them, and
> > epoxying in new ones.
> >     But the ones on the far side of the bridge are
> > almost crack-free, and I'm questioning the wisdom
> of
> > my pulling them out ( I have to clamp a vise-grip
> on
> > them and twist them out--they're in there pretty
> > solidly! ) and gluing in new ones.
> >     How important is absolute rigidity/tightness/
> and
> > uniformity with the speaking length pins ???
> > Am I wasting my time ? Causing more harm than
> good,
> > perchance ???
> >    Thanks!
> >    Thump
> 
> Realistically, the back bridge pins are of little
> importance 
> other than defining the offset angle that clamps the
> string to 
> the speaking termination of the bridge - which is
> the pin. 
> Baldwin, among others, didn't even bother to notch
> the back 
> side of the bridges in some of their crappy little
> pianos. And 
> no, it's not the absence of back scale notching that
> makes 
> them crappy.
> 
> 
> > P.S. Would some super-thin CA , dripped around
> their
> > bases be adequate, to make me feel like I 'did
> > something" ???
> 
> Usually, replaced bridge pins include resurfacing
> the bridge 
> top and re notching. This is going to be tough
> without pulling 
> all the bridge pins. So you have to decide how close
> to right 
> the rest of the piano will be done, and apply the
> same 
> attitude to the bridge, soundboard, action, etc.
> Ron N
> 



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