Steinway action noise

[Marcel Carey]

Hi Greg,

I've seen this before. Could you check the distance between the knuckle and the hammer-flange center pin. If the knuckle was closer to the pin than the original part, this could give you a weight problem AND it could get the jack way too close to the flange in order to get aftertouch. Also, a simple solution for the click is to add some thickness to the felt in the wippen's window (jack stopper felt).

Keep us informed of the solution you'll use.

Marcel Carey, RPT
Sherbrooke, QC
----------------------------------------
> From: gnewell at ameritech.net
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: Steinway action noise
> Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 13:03:31 -0500
> 
> Greetings list members. 
> I have an action in the shop from an old "A" which was recently redone by
> someone other than me. The school didn't like my original quote and did
> something cheaper. Now they want me to fix the rather pronounced click and
> heavy feel when keys are played. I admit to being a bit puzzled by this one.
> The problem is that the jack tip on a forte blow contacts the underside of
> the hammer flange producing the click. The new wippens, hammer shanks,
> flanges and hammers are Steinway's. The Renner Parts Kit yield no help. I'm
> wondering if the rails are soldered in wrong. I've measured the distance
> between the hammer rail and the wippen rail on this "A" and on a much newer
> "L" I have in the shop which, incidently, is from the Teflon era. The "L"
> rails are 129.5mm apart (on center) and the "A" rails are 128mm. The action
> spread for the "L" is 111mm and the "A" is 110mm. Neither action is anywhere
> near in compliance with the magic line theory. Just so I understand it's
> base of key at balance rail pin to wippen flange center pin and the capstan
> should cross that line during half key travel and the other being wippen
> flange center pin to hammer flange center pin and the base of the knuckle
> should cross the line at half key travel. Sure hope I'm wrong here since
> neither of the actions is even close. There are also double felts on the
> keystick ends for damper lift if that is any kind of a clue to someone. Also
> new white keytops were installed but the keystick was not milled down to
> accommodate the new thicker plastics. I have some budget with which to work
> this out but I can't go too nuts. I'm hoping to retain the new (old) parts
> since much of their money will need to be spent on my time. Any ideas?
> 
> All the best,
> Greg Newell
> 

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