Bridge Root Spring-Forward

[Farrell]

A modified two-part urea-formaldehyde adhesive. The two parts are a liquid resin and a powdered hardener - so it cures like epoxy, it does not dry like wood glue. I could have used Titebond, but my fear of warping during the drying process is one reason I haven't used it. I think maybe Ron Nossaman builds his laminated bridge roots with Titebond - but I'm not sure. Ron?

I think most manufacturers use an adhesive similar to what I am using.

Terry Farrell
  ----- Original Message ----- 

  I don't know. That's why I asked. What kind of glue are you using? 

  Paul
  In a message dated 09/05/07 17:39:35 Central Daylight Time, mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com writes:
    How would a little adhesive soaking into the wood affect anything?

    Terry Farrell
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: PAULREVENKOJONES 

      Glue absorption?

      Paul

      "If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)


      In a message dated 09/05/07 12:51:41 Central Daylight Time, mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com writes:
        Question for those who are in the habit of laminating up new bridge roots - or maybe even those who don't, but might have some thoughts to share. I just completed building a bridge root for a customer that came out very nicely, but the overall curve of the bridge is off by a couple millimeters or so, much like other ones I have built in the past. I really don't understand that. 

        One would think of the possibility of some small spring-back effect (but with 18 laminations?), but the curve error is always toward a tighter curve. How can that be? 

        I don't think it is a significant issue as you can easily correct the bend with your pinky - but still, how does this happen?
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