Bass Bridge Help!

Greg Graham grahampianos at yahoo.com
Thu Sep 27 21:38:31 MDT 2007


Jim, 

My PTG chapter discussed bass bridge repair at a
chapter meeting this summer, just before I did one. 
Some photos are attached.  

The archives have good stuff under "Bass Bridge",
especially Newton Hunt, John Ross, Joe Goss, all on
March 7, 1999.  See also John Page Jan 7, 1997.  

There is a cheap way, and the right way.  What is
their budget?  Is the rest of the piano worth the
work?  

The cheap way is to inject or slather in epoxy and
screw it together enough to stop the rattles and get
some transmission of sound, without taking everything
apart.  

The right way is to tilt the piano, remove the bass
strings, clean and repair gluing surfaces, shim to get
downbearing, and epoxy and screw and/or dowel the
bridge back in place.  

It took me six hours to do the "right way", which
included placing the bass strings back on their hitch
pins (no tension) before tilting the piano back up
(saves your back).  I came back a few days later to
pull it up to pitch (three passes through the bass,
tenor touchup).  I'm sure our more expert rebuilders
are laughing.  They probably rip through this in two
hours.  

Plan on epoxy with gap filler add-in.   Plan on
letting it cure before tuning.  Plan on a HUGE
improvement in tone.  

If you don't know how much downbearing there should be
in the bass, start reading.  You need some, but too
much is as bad as too little.  

The photos show a bridge with an intact cap, but the
root separated from the shelf, which was also
separated from the soundboard.  The cross-grain
construction of the shelf destroyed the joints, and
also split the shelf.  I didn't try to rejoin the
split, but rather hope that the gap will prevent
another self-destruct sequence.  

There were dowels in the shelf to soundboard joint
that were a little stubborn, but had moved so much in
the soundboard that they could not be used to relocate
the shelf.  Use thread to place the bridge and check
downbearing.  Measure from several points before you
take it apart so that you can put it back where it
belongs.   

I glued and screwed the bridge to the shelf from
underneath the shelf.  (You couldn't do this if the
shelf was still attached to the soundboard.  You would
have to screw from the bridge side between the
strings.)  Then, I glued and screwed the shelf to the
soundboard at the ribs, clamping it firmly enough to
allow me to replace the strings slack, tip up the
piano, and run in several more screws from the back
between the ribs, using soundboard buttons.  Purists
would have removed the screws and filled the holes
with dowels after the epoxy was cured.  This piano
didn't need the deluxe treatment.  

Bring along some solid copper wire to keep the bass
strings in order, without untwisting them as they come
off the hitch pin. 

Check the bridge pins and tuning pins while the piano
is on its back.  This is a great time to apply CA
where needed.  Tighten bottom board screws.  Lube
casters.  Like the 90 year old who bent over to tie
his shoes would say "What else can I do while I'm down
here?"  

If anyone spots any fatal errors, please let me know. 
I'm always interested in quality improvement.


Gregory Graham 
Registered Piano Technician 
I II III II III II III II III II III II III II III
Graham Piano Service 
PO Box 615 
Brodheadsville, PA 18322
  grahampianos at yahoo.com
  Phone 610-381-4482 

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