Piano refinsihing question

[Steve Ellemberg]

Hi all,
Thank you very much for your input.  It seems that Mark may have been
correct.  After speaking to the Laquer manufacturer they advised me
that the store that sold me the lacquer may had it on the shelf for
over a year.  Even though they shook the can before I purchased it,
the tint may have settled beyond the shakers ability to mix.  I will
be returning the lacquer today and attempting the process again with
another product.

As suggested, I also spoke to a local refinisher who was extremely
helpful.  He convinced me that learning to use a compressed air spray
system would be essential to this project.   I have since purchased a
spray gun and will be applying all coatings in that manner.  Should be
fun!

Thanks again,
Steve


On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 3:46 AM, Mark Potter
<bases-loaded76 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Steve -
>
> To echo Al's remarks, using that much sanding sealer to fill the grain is
> usually not advisable.  It still doesn't explain why the lacquer "will not
> take", though.  Do you mean it is literally not adhering, or that it has
> significant transparency?
>
> Am I correct in assuming that your sanding sealer was a 'lacquer' sanding
> sealer?  Hope so, or you may have compatibility issues.  In terms of your
> lacquer being too transparent, I would guess that either: 1) you have not
> thoroughly mixed the pigment in the lacquer, or 2) you are not applying a
> thick enough film.  I wouldn't worry about applying more than two coats of
> lacquer, and if you are planning on doing a formal rubbed finish you will
> certainly want a minimum of 4-5 coats, usually more, to minimize rub-thru.
>
> For future consideration, a better, more durable finish process would be to
> fill the grain with tinted grain filler.  Then apply a couple coats of black
> (or dark grey) primer compatible with your finish lacquer, then as many
> topcoats required to get the finish you desire.  If it's an 'off-the-gun'
> finish you will not need as much topcoat material as you would if you were
> doing a formal rubbed ebony finish.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Mark Potter
>
>
>
> Steve Ellemberg <Steve at store.parks.ca.gov> wrote:
>
>
> I am trying to restore a piano that was originally wood grained and will
> soon have an Ebony finish. I found a post on ptg.org that contained detailed
> instructions with the following steps: multiple coats of sanding sealer,
> followed by several coats of black lacquer and clear lacquer, sanding in
> between each coat..
>
> I already have the piano completely disassembled and have applied 3 coats of
> sanding sealer, with more than 30 hours of sealing and sanding.
>
> My instructions were to apply semi-gloss black lacquer (cut by 50% with
> thinner) after the last coat of sanding sealer (after 400 grit sanding), but
> when I tried this, the black lacquer would not take, it is almost completely
> transparent. I tried to repeat the step with 100% lacquer and it is
> still very transparent. It would take about 5 coats to cover it
> completely and it is not recommended to use more than two coats thick.
>
> Would you have any suggestions on how to make the lacquer cover the old
> color of the piano.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> --
> Steven Ellemberg
> Project Director, California State Parks Store
> http://store.parks.ca.gov
> PRIDE Industries
> Creating jobs for people with disabilities
> Office: 408.842.1478 Cell: 916.847.1390 Fax: 408.413.5305
>
>



-- 
Steven Ellemberg
Project Director, California State Parks Store
http://store.parks.ca.gov
PRIDE Industries
Creating jobs for people with disabilities
Office: 408.842.1478 Cell: 916.847.1390 Fax: 408.413.5305