Dear Stephane If you realize how much a millimeter difference can Make then be sure you bed the key frame first. Often the key frame is jacked up several mm's Ask me how I know. Dale Hi beloved list. I'm preparing to do another hammer change on an old piano, and I wanted to pdate my (poor limited) knowledge about good hammer bore practice. p till now, I decided bore length from difference between strings height nd center pin height in each section. I was surprised to see how far you an go off by doing those measurements, and how much one millimeter does ount here. So I was happy to read about this wonderful shortcut which is to ry in each section a dry fit of a hammer with known bore length, and see if t is perpendicular to string at contact time (really clever). This gave me lso opportunity to ascertain that certainly in the treble, the string eight can differ by one or even two millimeters depending on where recisely you measure it. Of course it should be at strike line, but again, ow do you do that accurately ? ow, I have a few questions. How do you set up your boring jig in order to ake sure that the hammer molding is perpendicular to the shank (that is, if ou aim for that) ? The molding doesn't seem to have any parallel sides, nd is asymmetrical of shape. Also, for those tenor and bass hammers who re bore with an angle, how do you calculate where the bit enters the olding, in order for it to come out at the back approximately in the middle f the molding (that is if you aim for that) ? o you really adapt bore length at every section, or do you allow say one illimeter offset in uniformity's sake ? read John D comment about the hammer shank length being fixed by design nd so tweaking the hammer rake in order to get the perpendicular to string it (if I got that right, John). In the ballpark that we play, is this eally preferable to tweaking the hammer shank length and maintaining the 90 rake ? also experience problems in doing a dry fit : if it is tight enough, it is o difficult to move the hammer into its right position, while if it is easy o move the hammer, it won't stay in its right position after the first hit. as someone found a solution for this dilemma ? I have considered gluing he hammer simply like if it was to stay there, and then ungluing the usual ay. But maybe there is another less demanding trick ? ll advise welcome, of course. I'm mad about learning. Best regards. Stéphane Collin. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080424/0bf92c3a/attachment.html
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