Regulating Without Specs

[Erwinspiano at aol.com]

Hi Jon
  Nice work.
  I have been doing something similar and a bit  simpler) but along the same 
lines. (I'm simple).
 I've been making and selling  tool called the Action  Ratio gauge. Picture 
shown below.
      
  A 6  mm foot is mounted to the bottom of the  weighted wooden block. The 
chart on the back is used to instantly crunch the  numbers you get when using 
it. 
 
  How it works
  Simply set the Action ratio gauge on the keys, which  should be close to 
level. Then using a metric depth gauge I measure  the hammer rise above the 
neighboring hammer.  Take the distance &  divide by 6 & voila.... a very close 
action  ratio.
   IE if the hammer rises 34 mm higher than it's  neighbor, divide that by 6 
(the thickness of the foot)this equals a 5.67 ratio  on the chart. Not bad.  I 
can work with  this. 
  High numbers, say 6 & above, will always  require a long 48 mm hammer 
travel & a shallow dip.
 I.E. Baldwin's.In this case  I know I've got work to  do
 Something in the 5.5 ratio range will usually be  a 46 mm hammer travel & 
.390 dip.  (Steinways/others) 
  Measuring the sharps is done in the same way & the  ratio will always be 
slightly different due to the key balance point &  shorter leverage.
  The beauty of this gauge is that a tech can easily  & quickly assess action 
problems in front of clients eyes in  minutes & can inform them why the 
action is heavy/ light etc &  the appropriate remedy. 
   I use the ratio information to determine  which action parts I will choose 
when rebuilding. 
  The Action ratio can be can be modified to improve  function in essentially 
3 ways.  Change the knuckle placement, move  the capstan or ( These are the 
most common fixes) the key balance point can  be relocated if replacing the 
keyset.
  Any numbers close to a 7 to will require new keys  to truly make the action 
work. AMHIK.
  High numbers equal short dip Long hammer travel.   Low numbers the 
opposite.  High numbers (5.8 to 7 or more) require light  hammers & lots of key lead 
to balance the action.
   Ok now the real beauty is this. Low numbers (5  to 5.6sih) can tolerate 
more hammer weight & some lead can be  unloaded from the key thereby reducing 
inertia. All pianist love  this
  On another note the first thing I usually do  is look at the leading.  If 
there are lots of lead.  I already know  the regulation & leading will be in a 
place I wont' like
  I'm not a number cruncher so I needed this to be easier  for me. 
  Regards
   Dale Erwin
  John writes
 Hello List,
I'm writing an article about regulating pianos  when you don't have 
specifications.  I'll paste in the simple nuts and  bolts of it below.  I'd appreciate 
your feedback.  I know there are  some setup caveats and pitfalls, and some 
other considerations, but rather than  lay all of them out, I thought I'd wait 
and hear from you guys about what you  see as strong points, weak points, yeah 
buts, and any other  considerations.

 




 
 
Dale Erwin--Piano Restorations
4721 Parker  rd
Modesto, Ca. 95357
Shop 209-577-8397
Web site _http://www.Erwinspiano.com_ (http://www.erwinspiano.com/)  
Restoration & Sales of
Steinway &  Sons & other fine pianos.
" Soundboards by  Design"




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