glue for hammers

[Jurgen Goering]

There is a lot of talk about glue that will 'fill the gap"  Is this 
really a good thing?  Should hammers be fitted to shanks in such a way 
that there are gaps that need filling?

What ever happened to properly fitting hammers to shanks rolled through 
a good quality knurler?  This compresses the wood and as soon as water 
touches the shank, it expands to a tight fit in the hammer by itself.   
Of course the glue does the main job of holding the two pieces, but the 
better they fit in the first place, the better the joint will be.

Jurgen Goering


On Jan 15, 2008, at 20:04, Jon Page wrote:
>
> A point I would like to make regarding a glue collar on a hammer
> shank is that I see it as adding no structural support.
> Since using Bolduc glue for installing hammers, I have noticed that
> hammers need a slight collar to wick in as the glue sets to supply
> the joint with sufficient material. I add a bead around the rear at the
> protruding shank to wick in also once the set is installed.
> Traditionally, hot glue left a collar. Not to add support but only
> what was pushed forwards and since the glue sets up relatively
> fast, wicking-in was not a function of the collar and cleaning
> off the collar was not necessary for appearance and not cost effective.
> Have you ever seen a glue collar on old furniture? Hammer shanks
> need none of this aesthetic quality, so only an even and consistent
> collar for tidiness.
> I've also noticed that it takes the same amount of force to remove
> those which have no collar (straightening hammers due to warping 
> shanks).
> The collar only gets in the way of hammer removing pliers.
> So it's neatness and consistency. I like to use enough glue to wick in
> and leave little or no collar.
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