glue for hammers

Dean May deanmay at pianorebuilders.com
Wed Jan 16 06:24:23 MST 2008


Ditto, what he said.

The problem for me is that I still buy my hammers pre-drilled so I am at the
mercy of someone else's quality control for hole location and angle. Too
often this ends up not being the precise angle I need so I have to open up
the gap a little and rely on the glue to fill it. 

Dean

Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 

PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 

Terre Haute IN  47802


-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Ron Nossaman
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 12:13 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: glue for hammers


> There is a lot of talk about glue that will 'fill the gap" Is this 
> really a good thing? 

Yes, I think it is.


>Should hammers be fitted to shanks in such a way 
> that there are gaps that need filling?

Yes, I think they should if you are to have any hope of 
aligning them fore and aft, or port and starboard, for that 
matter, before the moisture in the glue causes the joint to 
seize up.


> What ever happened to properly fitting hammers to shanks rolled through 
> a good quality knurler? This compresses the wood and as soon as water 
> touches the shank, it expands to a tight fit in the hammer by itself. Of 
> course the glue does the main job of holding the two pieces, but the 
> better they fit in the first place, the better the joint will be.

I've heard a lot of talk through the years of doing this, but 
when it comes down to actual humans hanging real hammers in 
physical pianos, the joint is likely fitted with enough slop 
(intentional and controlled, but yes, slop) to make alignment 
adjustments possible. What happened to "properly fitted" 
hammers seems to be that it never was a standard in anything 
other than concept.

Those of you who are hanging hammers with "size on" boring and 
no taper reaming for adjustment have my apology, admiration, 
and incredulity.
Ron N



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