glue for hammers

[Erwinspiano at aol.com]

Yeah Ron
  Megga hammer hanging dittos.
  Right boring means real world time in getting the hammers on in a  timely 
fashion & hung straight.
 
  Hey for example.  The current Abel shank production is such  that now the 
shank diameter/size is quite consistent.  Drill with a  no. 2 bit & the hammers 
will have enough play to install a handfull at  a time & still be able to get 
them aligned without center pin damage.   Currently I've been using the 
Bolduc glue which sets up a bit quick but is still  reversible.  However the cold 
hide glue is a great glue for this job  because it sets slow but sets hard.
  Dale
 

>Should hammers be fitted to shanks in such a way 
> that  there are gaps that need filling?

Yes, I think they should if you are  to have any hope of 
aligning them fore and aft, or port and starboard, for  that 
matter, before the moisture in the glue causes the joint to 
seize  up.


> What ever happened to properly fitting hammers to shanks  rolled through 
> a good quality knurler? This compresses the wood and  as soon as water 
> touches the shank, it expands to a tight fit in the  hammer by itself. Of 
> course the glue does the main job of holding the  two pieces, but the 
> better they fit in the first place, the better  the joint will be.

I've heard a lot of talk through the years of doing  this, but 
when it comes down to actual humans hanging real hammers in  
physical pianos, the joint is likely fitted with enough slop  
(intentional and controlled, but yes, slop) to make alignment  
adjustments possible. What happened to "properly fitted" 
hammers seems  to be that it never was a standard in anything 
other than  concept.

Those of you who are hanging hammers with "size on" boring and  
no taper reaming for adjustment have my apology, admiration, 
and  incredulity.
Ron N


 



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