Plugging and redrilling an action rail

[Fenton Murray]

JD,
If I were to plug rather than re-cap ( my first choice ) I'd cut plugs of same species and grain orientation. This will help you drill accurately.
Fenton
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: AlliedPianoCraft 
  To: Pianotech List 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 12:54 PM
  Subject: Re: Plugging and redrilling an action rail


  JD, I always save the sanding dust from my sanding machines. Very fine. I add that to a good epoxy. It will fill holes and machines very well.

  Al G

  Allied PianoCraft
  PO Box 1549
  High Point, NC 27261
  (336) 454-2000
  PianoTech at alliedpianocraft.com
  www.alliedpianocraft.com


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "John Delacour" <JD at Pianomaker.co.uk>
  To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
  Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 1:10 PM
  Subject: Plugging and redrilling an action rail


  > 
  > I'm preparing in my mind a job that needs to be done and which I 
  > haven't done before.
  > 
  > The problem is with an otherwise quite nice overstrung by Wilhelm 
  > Spaethe of Gera that will sound good and look good and is therefore 
  > worth restoring and will fetch a good price.
  > 
  > How the mistake was originally made I can't imagine, but the position 
  > of the hammer flange screw on the first plain steel note is about 
  > 10mm to the left of where is should be and the error reduces 
  > gradually until about note 55, when things are just about right.
  > 
  > The original finisher got over this difficulty by first sticking the 
  > shanks in the butts at a considerable angle and then twisting the 
  > hammer-head to negate the remaining error.  I have bored out the 
  > butts and got a good set of Wurzen AA hammers from Abel, and shanks, 
  > and they will sound very good.  I now have the option of either 
  > getting a new rail bored correctly from Renner, but almost certainly 
  > with the wrong flange profile and all sorts of other problems, or 
  > plugging and redrilling the existing rail where it is unacceptable. 
  > As to the keys, I'll work out that problem before diving in.
  > 
  > There will be no problem redrilling at the tenor end because the new 
  > holes will not interfere with the old ones, but for 15 or 20 notes -- 
  > say 50 holes -- I shall need to be drilling close to or overlapping 
  > the old plugged hole.  I've thought of leather and epoxy for plugging 
  > the holes, but I'd be interested to hear other ideas from people who 
  > have done the job before.  Is there some magic plugging solution that 
  > will produce a durable result and be as good as it should have been 
  > when new?
  > 
  > JD
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
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