Scott I had the same problem with an English piano, don't remember the brand name... The owner had two different technicians fail to solve the problem so I was determined to figure out a solution. I tapped the balance rail pins backwards, too. I moved the keyframe backwards a bit, also. But keys were still sticking on the keyslip. Then I got out my wood file and started removing wood from the inside of the keyslip. It only took about 15 minutes to remove enough wood that the keys had clearance again and she had her piano back. And just to set the record straight, this keyslip was absolutely NON-REMOVABLE! I unscrewed every screw I could find from below, or inside the piano. I even unscrewed the keyframe because I thought MAYBE it was glued to the keyframe. I spent a good 20 minutes investigating how to remove this keyslip because I couldn't fathom that it wasn't removable. I mention this because there was a suggestion that perhaps it was conncected to the cheek blocks and could be removed along with the cheek blocks. No, this keyslip was part of the cabinet, and was not going anywhere. I don't know about Scott's Chinese piano, but this English piano had a kekyslip that could not be removed. Tom Sivak --- "buckscott at juno.com" <buckscott at juno.com> wrote: > Hi guys and gals- > > I just serviced a no name Chinese piano with a > non-removable keyslip (it is glued to the keybed, > and finished continuously with the cheeks). > > The problem: The keyslip is rubbing against the > keyfronts of the naturals. > > What I have attempted: Tapping the balance rail > pins toward the back, which gained me a little > clearance, but not enough. I am not so joyously > awaiting the summer humidity. > > Any suggestions? (that don't involve a sledge > hammer)? > > Scott Kitzmiller > _____________________________________________________________ > Click now and get great rates when you open a > savings account! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/REAK6aAWybhz5k3CdIUaNCSjbL5ps1TL5wuWFNCiSwE5b6dky9kQ8a/ > > > >
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