I didn't even check the pitch. After putting my thumb down the crack, I just figured it was best to let the tension down, and start repairs. Thumpe P.S. We took the action out for inpection, and tried to put it back in a 1/2 ghour later. Wouldn't fit. By then, the posts had moved (?) 1/16 lower, it seems, and the brackets wouldn't slide in!!!!! We quick put some clamps on the thing so it wouldn't get worse, while the tension was lowered! --- John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> wrote: > I am tempted to believe that the block was not > pulled together before the > bolts were added. I have never seen one I repaired > come apart again. > I use carriage bolts, and intentionally imbed them > in the wood, then they > don't turn. I have just used regular glue. > The bolts would not 'stretch', they would break, if > the tension were too > much. Especially 1/2". > The person was probably just using the bolts, to > pull it together, or just > make sure it didn't get worse. > Clamps should definitely be used to close the gap, > before the holes are > drilled. > Just as a matter of interest, how far down in pitch > was the piano? > John Ross > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada > jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Euphonious Thumpe" <lclgcnp at yahoo.com> > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 3:08 PM > Subject: Epoxy for separated pinblock, or Titebond > (I,II or III) ??? > > > > Once again, I've seen a case of a "repaired" > pinblock > > ( carriage bolts through back, with washers and > nuts ) > > that has failed. > > This time, although the back is rock maple, > the > > string tension STILL sucked the nuts and washers > into > > the wood so far, that there's a 1/2" gap between > the > > pinblock and the back frame!!! > > ( Stretching the bolts, too??????? ) > > So, I'm about to glue it all together. ( With > #8 > > bolts all the way through, and a thick steel plate > all > > along the back that CAN'T get sucked into the > wood! ) > > I'm sure it doesn't matter, with the > > compreghensive arrangement I'm using, which will > > "sandwich" eveything together. > > But I'm still wondering: what's better in an > old > > glue joint ??????? > > Epoxy: which is very strong but will not ( > perhaps) > > bind with the old glue? > > OR > > One of the Titebond glues, which WILL. ( Because > > they're both water soluble. ) > > Thumpe > > > > P.S. "Test Tip": Run a sample strip of all your > > favorite glues on the lid of one of those plastic > > salad trays, mark them, then peel them off and > play > > with them after a week or so. You can see whixch > are > > tough, brittle, flexible, waterproof, etc. > > --- Michael Kurta <mkurta at roadrunner.com> wrote: > > > >> > > > > Euphonious Thumpe > > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > > Like movies? Here's a limited-time offer: > Blockbuster Total Access for one > > month at no cost. > > http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text4.com > > > Euphonious Thumpe ____________________________________________________________________________________ Like movies? Here's a limited-time offer: Blockbuster Total Access for one month at no cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text4.com
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