Sorry, but I still don´t understand that statement. A thin layer of Epoxy to remain in the joint? Of which joint you are talking about: the joint of Epoxy and wood?
What does it mean for practice? Should I first apply a little bit of Epoxy to the wood, let it become hard, and then apply the Epoxy with the filler?
Gregor
From: mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: Epoxy Bass Bridge Repair
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 15:57:38 -0400
Some adhesives like Titebond are not very good at
filling gaps. They perform best with a tight-fitting joint and minimal glue left
in the joint. Epoxy and many other adhesives is gap filling and you want at
least a thin layer of epoxy to remain in the joint - doesn't have to be much,
but you don't want a perfect fitting joint and then apply high clamping
pressure. With epoxy you want a loose fitting joint (or roughened up surfaces)
and minimal clamping pressure - clamp pressure is not to "clamp" as such, but
rather simply to hold pieces in place.
Terry Farrell
----- Original Message -----
From:
Gregor
_
To: Pianotech List
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:49 AM
Subject: RE: Epoxy Bass Bridge
Repair
Terry,
what do you
mean by "you need to leave
some epoxy in the gap. You don’t want to epoxy-starve
the joint."?
I found a source for Western System Epoxy handy repair set
including that filler here in Germany. Good to know, I will try it perhaps one
day, but not with that Kawai. I told the customer to ask a collegue who has 7
pianotechs working for his shop: 4 on master level, 2 with certificate of
apprenticeship and one apprentice, and they have a huge workshop. I don´t do
repairs with woodwork anymore, just tuning, small repairs and selling pianos.
But in this case it probably would have been easier to order a new brigde from
Kawai which fits perfectly without any adjusting: just installing and it
fits.
Gregor
From: mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re:
Epoxy Bass Bridge Repair
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 08:57:04 -0400
Epoxy repairs for a situation as
you describe can yield very good results. Sometimes the crack opens up a fair bit – you’ll want to clamp it
back into position – not to clamp in the
traditional sense, but rather to simply position the parts in their original orientation – you need to leave some
epoxy in the gap. You don’t want to
epoxy-starve the joint.
I use West System epoxy
resin, hardeners and fillers:
www.westsystem.com My
favorite for a cracked bridge is #404 High-Density Filler and using the West System two-step bonding
procedure described on the West System web site. The following is from the
West System web site:
404
High-Density Filler
404 High-Density filler is a thickening additive
developed for maximum
physical properties in hardware bonding where
high-cyclic loads are
anticipated. It can also be used for filleting and
gap filling where maximum
strength is necessary. Color:
off-white.
You can either push the
bridge pins into the uncured epoxy, tidy up and be done with it, or,
for a neater, more exacting job, you can epoxy the gap and then drill bridge
pin holes after the epoxy hardens. I have found that if cosmetic
considerations are not paramount, I apply the epoxy, clamp together until
the wood is close to original dimension, clean off epoxy squeeze out
(acetone) - at that point you will be able to see the outline of the
original pin holes - push pins in place - the wood will have been drawn
together enough to hold the pin in its original position - and then level
off and clean up the little bit of epoxy that squeezes out of the holes as
you push the pin in place. Wait a day or two for the epoxy to completely
cure, go back and install bass strings.
I've done this repair
numerous times with great success.
And of course, on a nicer
piano where the budget allows, new bridge and/or new cap is
preferred.
Terry Farrell
-----
Original Message -----
From:
Gregor _
To:
pianotech at ptg.org
Sent:
Friday, May 09, 2008 5:13 AM
Subject:
Epoxy Bass Bridge Repair
I crawled the archieves but I did not really find what I
was looking for: does Epoxy work even for bigger gaps?
I wanted to
tune a Kawai CE-11 upright yesterday but the bass bridge looked horrible:
a long gap which affected 9 notes. The gap started at the upper pin row
and the pins were vertical. Some strings rattled at the pins. The gap
expanded up to 4 mm above the upper pin row. I did not try but I could
imagine that I could have pulled out some pins without using
pliers.
First at all: I never worked with Epoxy. My first thought
was to pull out the pins, fill the gap with epoxy and drill new holes for
new pins. Could that work or is such a gap too much for Epoxy? The bridge
is made of one piece of wood, no cap.
I was shocked about such a
gap in a Kawai from 1992 (no grey market import): no floor heating, no air
con and no heater near by the piano. And I don´t live in an area with huge
differences in the climate. Very strange. That damage is a pitty because
everything else in this piano was in a pretty good condition. But making a
new bridge would be definitely too expensive including transports from the
second floor into a workshop and back to the
customer.
Gregor
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