1890's Everett upright

[John Voigt]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.  I'm liking the idea of finding a way
to shift the hammer over by modifying the flange.

I did check the bottom bass bridge and it was OK, but I can't say I looked
specifically at the top.  I would think something like that would have
jumped out at me up there where it is visible.

I did end up tuning unisons as I went with a one piece rubber mute, but even
that was difficult to place because of the close proximity of the plate.
The tip would curl and not fit behind the string.  I had a split mute in the
tuning case, but did not think to try it.  It might have worked better, but
the ends of that are thicker than the single.

John Voigt

  -----Original Message-----
  From: John Formsma [mailto:formsma at gmail.com]
  Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 10:30 PM
  To: Pianotech List
  Subject: Re: 1890's Everett upright


  On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 8:11 PM, John Voigt <jvoigt at gwtc.net> wrote:


    Questions:  Is there a fix for the hammers other than filing the hammers
and
    replacing the shanks?


  Can you slightly enlarge the hammer butt flange hole to shift the hammer
over a bit more?




    Has anyone else ever experinced a situation with the plate being so
close to
    the strings?


  Yes.  There are some old Chickerings that are impossible to keep a strip
mute in.  Is it the 67BB?  Anyway, if you're using an ETD, just tune unisons
as you go.  If you're tuning aurally ... well, it's a good time to practice
tuning the unisons as you go.  :-)

  --
  JF
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