I'm really ignorant about this stuff, but the small piano could be turned upside down and epoxy run down in those spaces to make a very solid fit. Would that make any sense? les bartlett Will Truitt wrote: > > Hi Debra: > > > > As a followup to Marcel's point, I would start by removing the > action. Then take a large hand mirror and a strong light and examine > the fit between the plate flange and the pinblock for gaps visually. > You can also take a feeler gauge of about .004 and insert it into any > gap you find there and run it along between the plate flange and > pinblock until you hit resistance. Chalk the beginning and end points > on the pinblock. Do this along the length of the pinblock face, and > you will then have an idea of how much contact you actually have. > Another clue is to look at the tuning pins. If you see gaps at the > back of the tuning pin (toward the stretcher) and the pins look like > they are pressing forward against the plate bushings, that is another > sign of poor fitting. > > > > I have made tapered hardwood shims and tapped them between the plate > flange and the pinblock with glue, after lowering tension. Upon > retuning, I find this helps stabilize the offending instruments. > > > > All that being said, Ron Nossaman's and others remarks on the poor > scaling in the tenor area are right on the money. Scalewise, it's a > barking dog in that area. > > > > Will Truitt > > > > *F* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20081116/d3c14c69/attachment.html>
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