Bob, Yes, remove one of the felt BR Punchings when you do this. You shouldn't have a half felt punching and a full felt punching. Key level will not go up. If anything it might go down a very few thou. David, I thought this was an Estonia 190. Do they have half-rounds at the balance rail, too? William R. Monroe > Mark, > > you misunderstood Bob. What he intended to convey to you was the > technique you described below, of putting a little glue on the bottom of > the key, putting the key down on the punching, letting it harden, then > lifting the key out and cutting off part of the punching... thereby > shifting the pivot point of the key... to lower the ratio and lighten cut > off the front part of the punching as needed and vice versa. > > I know because to my knowledge I originated the technique and taught it to > Bob over a decade ago. I've taught the technique to many many people > since then but I've never published anything written about it... maybe on > this list or maybe someone I taught it too mentioned it on this list... > > However if the piano is under warranty then it must have accelerated > action so the 1/2 punching technique won't work on this piano... > > I'll mention to Bob M. that he needs to be more concise when he describes > the method, especially in his classes... thanks for the feedback... > > David S. > >>Bob at Pianotek was helpful. He suggest adding 1/2 punching to the key >>at the balance rail. My punchings are scarlet (.055). Not having any, I >>used several layers of maksing tape to get up to about .033, in the >>shape of a regular puncing, cut in two, and stuck them on --facing the >>right way-- at the balance pin hole of the key. >> This indeed did lighten the feel of the piano, but it caused it to >> be >>sluggish. Plus it raised the key height 1/16 and the back end, nearly >>3/8" (which makes since with the leverage as we calculated is above >>that 6.2 to 1. >> The way I've done this (and I'm pretty sure that I learned this >> from >>somebody else on this list) was to use the existing punchings. Apply a >>very small amount of glue to the bottom of the key just behind the >>balance holes, and reinstall the keys. Once the glue has set remove >>them and slice off the front half of the punching with a sharp blade. >>Done this way it shouldn't affect the key height much at all - >>certainly it won't raise it. My question would be is there really a >>difference between this and moving capstans - from a warranty-voiding >>perspective, that is. And if there is...should you really care? >> >>- Mark Dierauf >> >><snip> >>>The AR, shows the inertia. I'm (we) are looking at >>>6.2. I would like it around 5.5, and lower the FW into the low to medium >>>range. >> >>>We've figured out that the key geometry is in trouble. But to move the >>>capstan or knuckle, >>>will void the piano's warranty. >><snip> > > >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC