waves

[Richard Brekne]

That I have Fenton. Tho looks like after nearly half my life in 
Bergen... I've found my home. Felt kinda right from the get go way back 
in 81. Its not quite as exotic now as it was then... but then you do get 
used to things.  Still, when folks here ask me where in the US I am 
from... I have a hard time answering.  Born in Loup City, 
Nebraska...then before I was 2 we were in Lincoln. At 5 we were in 
Buffalo N.Y. At 11 I were in Montana, then my senior year in Palo 
Alto... moved around a lot after that on my own. I've been in all but 
two states for at least a few days.  Still... I end up telling them... 
"Eg er fra Bergen eg !"  Lots of cool memories from California and 
Montana tho... and the night sky in New Mexico.... well thats another story.

Cool you get into surfing... I tried once in Hawaii... got fooled into 
renting this little bitty expert board with 2 foot swells... struggled 
for 6 hours and never got up.. sigh... you cant do everything in this 
world, but its nice to try.... or dream.  Body surfing has its own 
pleasures tho.  The feel of the wave bubbling you forward... what a high !

Cheers, and be safe
Ric

    You've been around, Ric.
    Fenton


     >/ A wave thread!? ...... Santa Cruz is home break for me for most of
    />/ my 54 years.....
    />/ Fenton
    />/
    />/
    />/ Dont know much about board surfing... but just left of the
    Boardwalk at
    />/ Santa Cruz is one of the best body surfing spots I've ever run
    into.
    />/ Theres another great spot in Quiberon just out on the French
    coast near
    />/ Carnak. Senior at Paly High... long time ago... different life.
    />/
    />/ Cheers
    />/ RicB
    /