Years ago I took Ruth's class- something I felt awfully expensive, as the "stuff" was awfully expensive. We spent some time practicing and I sort of screwed things up, but took my little box home and always planned to practice........ Well, I think I knocked a chip out right on the curve at the far end of a cheek block on the inside of the frame. I told the lady I'd try to fix it............ and failing, I'd get the best touch up man in town to do it. Three hours the irritated lady came home and I said I'd given up. She was unable to find any evidence there had ever been a chip. This is a shameless plug for Ruth, he products, knowledge, and willingness to be helpful in every respect. It's the only time I've had reason to use the stuff, and right now I wouldn't want to have to do it again, but I think I actually could, having had my first success in a very difficult spot. les bartlett Ruth Phillips wrote: > > Hi Chuck, > > This is a few days old so you probably have an answer by now, but in > > case you don't -- we have ebony acrylic that was color-matched to Yamaha > > for this very situation. You can also take something like a cheek > block to > > an auto-body shop paint supplier, who can make a match for you. It > > comes out great. > > Ruth Phillips > > ruth at alliedpiano.com <mailto:ruth at alliedpiano.com> > > > > > > > > >From: Chuck Behm <behmpiano at gmail.com> > > > > >Dear List - In repairing a chip on the front of a Yamaha fallboard > using the Schaff polyester repair kit, I got too ambitious with the > 500 grit wet/dry paper during the leveling out step and rubbed through > the black in a spot next to the fill. Since I'm only at 500 grit, I'm > sure the problem will worsen as I go through the rest of the grits. > When I realized what had happened, I decided I needed to stop right > there until I was sure of what steps I should be taking next. > > I'm clearly out of my element here, and need advise. Do I need to > spray over the entire front of the fallboard, or just the side on > which the repair is located and feather it out, or is a simple > touching up of the rub-through possible? What product or product and > techniques would work the best? I have a good compressor and spray > equipment, if that would be needed. > > My only concern is that the completed job looks right when it's done. > > Rarely does anything less than 75 years old come into our shop, so > working with hi-gloss ebony is something I hardly ever do. Words of > wisdom from > > someone in the know would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance, > Chuck > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090427/ba736889/attachment.html>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC