Doesn't a small bit of heat on the bridgepin help it wick in faster and cleaner? Or am i thinking of epoxy? Paul From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Date: 12/01/2009 09:44 AM Subject: Re: [pianotech] treating bridges with CA I don’t have a problem with applications of very thin CA with the strings on. It doesn’t seem to really matter. If the bridge top is compromised such that you need to apply CA then it’s likely that the very little residue that might touch the string is much less of a problem than the bridge top itself. Anyway, use a fine dropper and apply sparingly on the backside of the pin and let it wick down into the gap from there. Use tiny piece of paper towel to wick up any residue that goes where you don’t want it. You have some time to work with it before it sets up. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Barbara Richmond Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 6:32 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] treating bridges with CA Duh, I was in a hurry. Of course, using the lacquer would be more pleasant, but would it be as effective at keeping further damage from occurring? Man, I've got to go to work.... Barbara ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barbara Richmond" <piano57 at comcast.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2009 8:01:52 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [pianotech] treating bridges with CA Thanks, Ric. That's something more to think about and I'm not crazy about CA. But, dang, the thought of having to space strings, the hammer mating, etc., takes the repair out of the fast and dirty category. :-) Barbara Richmond, RPT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Brekne" <ricb at pianostemmer.no> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2009 7:47:22 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [pianotech] treating bridges with CA Hi Barbara Just thought I'd throw my two bits in here. Personally I never even think about trying to apply CA or Epoxy to the bridge without removing the strings. It just ends up being less effective then I want (and know it can be) and too much of a hassle to avoid getting either onto the strings. I DO quite often use Cellulose lacquer in cases where an improvement is needed but the customer wont pay for the extra time it takes to remove strings (as I go with CA, complete sections with epoxy). I thin it down to about 8:1 from the can, use a needle bottle and soak it in as much as the bridge will take. Its also very easy to cover the bridge notch with if you need... and has a nice tendency to wick in under the string filling bridge indentations without getting on the string much at all.. It does get of course on the underside of the strings back of the bridge pin... but this is not a problem. Any lacquer that DOES get on the strings forward of the bridge pins is very easily removed either while still wet or while dry. Frankly... I'm doing more and more of this as I find it solves very much of the exact same problems CA is used for here... is much much easier to deal with in general and I dont have to worry nearly so much about the fumes..... tho to be sure Cellulose and thinner is not exactly the most healthy thing to breath in deeply either. Try it... you may be surprised. I carry a bottle with me all the time now... helps clean up falseness of a variety of types. Really handy for that wavering undefined wangishness found often in the 1' area (octave 5) Cheers RicB -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20091201/df0d72a9/attachment-0001.htm>
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